HowTo: S14 Walbro fuel pump install
HowTo: S14 Walbro fuel pump install
Hey Everybody, didnt see any threads on an s14 fuel pump install (there is an s13 one on NICO but s14's get a distinctly different situation)
This writeup here should cut the install time on a fuel pump easily in half. It took me over 2 hours of screwing around and unsureness to get the job done, but in reality i could probably do it in an hour or less if i had to do it 2nd time around.
So. you order a walbro fuel pump install kit for your car, you get the parts and you get a..
Shiney pump
Piece of hose with 2 clamps
Fuel sock and lock washer
And wire with 2 crimp connectors
BEFORE First: HAVE LESS THAN HALF A TANK OF GAS!
First: assemble the fuel pump
If you want you can reuse the stock fuel pump sock which is way bigger (i pulled the walbro one back off, you gotta use a flathead to pop the lock washer out side to side if you already put yours on, do the same thing on the stock fuel pump to remove that one)
Then you wanna put the hose on top, this part you will probably have to cut to size once you're ready to install it, i had to cut over half an inch off the top
Ready to go out to the car, you wanna turn on the car and then pull out the fuel pump fuse, this will turn off the fuel pump and your car will run the lines dry and die.
If you're like me and your motor is out then be prepared to spill a lot of gas all over the place
Then pop off the gas cap and let all the pressure out
Locate your fuel pump cover, I dont know why the engineers at nissan decided to put ours in the thin cubby between the trunk and the rear seats but its right here:
Takes a 10mm wrench to pop those off and then you're in.
At this part i found it easier to work from inside the car because i didnt have to be bent over in the trunk
The vacuum lines are a real PITA to pull off, but move the crimpers out of the way, put pliers around the line and twist it left and right a bit to loosen it up (dont put too much pressure or fear crimping the opening the hose is on)
Also at this point fuel may start spilling out of the lines the vacuum hoses were on (especially if your tank is full like mine) Nothing much you can do here except try to catch it on paper rags.
Next you gotta take the big locking plastic cap off the fuel pump assembly. The FSM dictates the use of a big proper size Nissan Fuel Pump Removal Wrench or something, but since i didnt have this at hand and i could turn it with my hands i got something long with a blunt end, set it on the edge of the cap and pound it with my hand, a few inches of movement will make it twistable by hand.
Now you can pull off the cap, and set it aside a bit, the rubber grommet around it may fall in the gas tank but luckily it floats.
Here you can see why its a good idea to have less than half a tank of gas. I filled mine up to full before pulling the motor and I barely was able to get my hand in there and get the pump out without displacing enough gas to overflow into the car.
Anyways, Here comes the messy part so i have no pics, but you put a big rubber glove on (or in my case a plastic bag) and reach in the tank. If you're inside the car you wanna put your hand towards yourself because the fuel pump is on the wall (as you follow the fuel line into the tank)and you will find it is latched. You pull that up and it should come right out of the bracket with relative ease.
Whipped out a quick sideprofile of the tank of what it feels like to me anyway.
When the bracket is out you pull off the old pump, cut the stock wiring harness and bring the new pump and wiring harness out. The red solid wire is + (to red)and red striped is - (to black).
On the bottom of the pump when you assemble it to the fuel pump bracket it dont forget to put on the plastic grommet to absorb vibrations from the pump.
Now read backwards and reassemble everything.
If you're like me and spilled gas all over the place leave the place open and let it dry for a while
your input is welcome,
Thanks,
Marko
This writeup here should cut the install time on a fuel pump easily in half. It took me over 2 hours of screwing around and unsureness to get the job done, but in reality i could probably do it in an hour or less if i had to do it 2nd time around.
So. you order a walbro fuel pump install kit for your car, you get the parts and you get a..
Shiney pump
Piece of hose with 2 clamps
Fuel sock and lock washer
And wire with 2 crimp connectors
BEFORE First: HAVE LESS THAN HALF A TANK OF GAS!
First: assemble the fuel pump
If you want you can reuse the stock fuel pump sock which is way bigger (i pulled the walbro one back off, you gotta use a flathead to pop the lock washer out side to side if you already put yours on, do the same thing on the stock fuel pump to remove that one)
Then you wanna put the hose on top, this part you will probably have to cut to size once you're ready to install it, i had to cut over half an inch off the top
Ready to go out to the car, you wanna turn on the car and then pull out the fuel pump fuse, this will turn off the fuel pump and your car will run the lines dry and die.
If you're like me and your motor is out then be prepared to spill a lot of gas all over the place
Then pop off the gas cap and let all the pressure out
Locate your fuel pump cover, I dont know why the engineers at nissan decided to put ours in the thin cubby between the trunk and the rear seats but its right here:
Takes a 10mm wrench to pop those off and then you're in.
At this part i found it easier to work from inside the car because i didnt have to be bent over in the trunk
The vacuum lines are a real PITA to pull off, but move the crimpers out of the way, put pliers around the line and twist it left and right a bit to loosen it up (dont put too much pressure or fear crimping the opening the hose is on)
Also at this point fuel may start spilling out of the lines the vacuum hoses were on (especially if your tank is full like mine) Nothing much you can do here except try to catch it on paper rags.
Next you gotta take the big locking plastic cap off the fuel pump assembly. The FSM dictates the use of a big proper size Nissan Fuel Pump Removal Wrench or something, but since i didnt have this at hand and i could turn it with my hands i got something long with a blunt end, set it on the edge of the cap and pound it with my hand, a few inches of movement will make it twistable by hand.
Now you can pull off the cap, and set it aside a bit, the rubber grommet around it may fall in the gas tank but luckily it floats.
Here you can see why its a good idea to have less than half a tank of gas. I filled mine up to full before pulling the motor and I barely was able to get my hand in there and get the pump out without displacing enough gas to overflow into the car.
Anyways, Here comes the messy part so i have no pics, but you put a big rubber glove on (or in my case a plastic bag) and reach in the tank. If you're inside the car you wanna put your hand towards yourself because the fuel pump is on the wall (as you follow the fuel line into the tank)and you will find it is latched. You pull that up and it should come right out of the bracket with relative ease.
Whipped out a quick sideprofile of the tank of what it feels like to me anyway.
When the bracket is out you pull off the old pump, cut the stock wiring harness and bring the new pump and wiring harness out. The red solid wire is + (to red)and red striped is - (to black).
On the bottom of the pump when you assemble it to the fuel pump bracket it dont forget to put on the plastic grommet to absorb vibrations from the pump.
Now read backwards and reassemble everything.
If you're like me and spilled gas all over the place leave the place open and let it dry for a while
your input is welcome,
Thanks,
Marko
Last edited by EstoMax on Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
95 s14 kaT
t3/t04e (60 trim), bikirom, groundzero mani/dp, 82 lb AMS FS
94 d21 kaE 4x4 stock
t3/t04e (60 trim), bikirom, groundzero mani/dp, 82 lb AMS FS
94 d21 kaE 4x4 stock
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If you look at the top of your factory pump you will see the terminals are labled + and - ... The black wire from the Walboro goes to the - and the red wire to the +... You will have to cut the factory wires and use the butt connectors supplied with the kit to connect the wires....
One thing to note when installing an S13 Walboro pump kiy in an S14... The fuel pump will need to be positioned correctly to orient the fuel sock in the right direction.. Please see THIS thread for information...
One thing to note when installing an S13 Walboro pump kiy in an S14... The fuel pump will need to be positioned correctly to orient the fuel sock in the right direction.. Please see THIS thread for information...
Ivan
Can we get the stock Nissan sock to have the same effect9sec240 wrote:If you look at the top of your factory pump you will see the terminals are labled + and - ... The black wire from the Walboro goes to the - and the red wire to the +... You will have to cut the factory wires and use the butt connectors supplied with the kit to connect the wires....
One thing to note when installing an S13 Walboro pump kiy in an S14... The fuel pump will need to be positioned correctly to orient the fuel sock in the right direction.. Please see THIS thread for information...
Its bigger too
I've just back flushed the socks before and not had a problem...
I guess I'll find out this weekend....
A good idea would be to hook a small charger to the FP terminals and connect a long hose to the outlet and feed all your $ gas in to a gas can to drain it completely before you take out the pump.
BUT make sure you have ~2-3 cans if your not on E
And I recommend soldering all connections that way you don't end up with a dead car in the middle of nowhere (@#$% happens).
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existing sock as in the stock one?
i reused my stock one too.. it should flow more than the walbro one because its bigger and therefore has less reistance per amount of fuel..
walbro one doesnt reach far and is tiny so if anyone needs a walbro sock i got one here for ya
i reused my stock one too.. it should flow more than the walbro one because its bigger and therefore has less reistance per amount of fuel..
walbro one doesnt reach far and is tiny so if anyone needs a walbro sock i got one here for ya
95 s14 kaT
t3/t04e (60 trim), bikirom, groundzero mani/dp, 82 lb AMS FS
94 d21 kaE 4x4 stock
t3/t04e (60 trim), bikirom, groundzero mani/dp, 82 lb AMS FS
94 d21 kaE 4x4 stock
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I bought a walbro kit that was adapted for the s14 for mine a while back.. I think it was only one place that offered it... longer sock than the s13 one, I believe it was from a prelude or something. Haven't had any issues for the past year and a half with it.
1997 Silver Moss KA-T
GT2871R / Z32 MAF / 550cc Deatschwerks Injectors
BikiRom Daughterboard on a '95 ECU
GT2871R / Z32 MAF / 550cc Deatschwerks Injectors
BikiRom Daughterboard on a '95 ECU
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Use a Hair dryer thing (the thingy women use to dry hair with) for heatsrink, or use the side of your soldering iron against the heatshrink until it's nice and snug. double layer the heatshrink if you're paranoid of sparks.Aervine wrote:I don't know if anyone else has had the same problem as me but don't use heat shrink tubing unless they make some kind for gasoline. Mine ballooned up and left the wire exposed and would short out on me.
As for reusing the stock sock, use your judgement if its clean then ok, if not I recommend using the Prelude sock listed above. the tiny one included with your walbro will starve the motor on low fuel levels. make sure you buy a new cap from nissan dealership.
Tre Performance sells some good pumps and can be found on ebay & website. Identical to Walbro. www.treperformance.com
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-I found this out last night while replacing my fuel sock with the one for '97 prelude....dang little tiny s13 style sock making my pump cavitate at a ½ tank. I too had the polyolefin heat shrink on the one wire balloon up and slide off the wire connection. Luckily I used PVC heat shrink on the other wire and it held up fine over the two years that it has been exposed to gasoline.Aervine wrote:I don't know if anyone else has had the same problem as me but don't use heat shrink tubing unless they make some kind for gasoline. Mine ballooned up and left the wire exposed and would short out on me.
If you feel the need to solder your fuel pump connections use ONLY PVC HEAT SHRINK TUBING it is the slightly harder plasticy type heat shrink tubing, not the soft rubbery type of tubing.
"There is no such thing as too much boost. You could have too little rod, piston, sleeve, head gasket or timing. But never too much boost."
'91 Nissan 240SX
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'85 Honda Nighthawk 450SC
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'96 Nissan 240SX KA-T
'05 Grand Cherokee (4x2)
'85 Honda Nighthawk 450SC
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I got my pump, no Foam SLeeve or Tie Wrap come with it...also i got this 2 little connectors to snap the wires together, im guessing bare wire cant be exposed in the gassoline tank with a **** load of gass? arg this is anoying well im going in to see wut i find..
Also i would like to add, i finished my manual conversion, i take out the fuel pump fuse, and the fking pump still works, cant get the car to die out, has this ever happend to any1 else?
Also i would like to add, i finished my manual conversion, i take out the fuel pump fuse, and the fking pump still works, cant get the car to die out, has this ever happend to any1 else?
608 whp @ 27.25 psi powered by Precision6262
its fine if the leads are exposed in the gas tank. as long as they dont get very close they wont spark anything. when you connect the wires use some crimp connectors that have a long piece of insulation around them.
95 s14 kaT
t3/t04e (60 trim), bikirom, groundzero mani/dp, 82 lb AMS FS
94 d21 kaE 4x4 stock
t3/t04e (60 trim), bikirom, groundzero mani/dp, 82 lb AMS FS
94 d21 kaE 4x4 stock
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I've done 3 or 4 walbro installs. And i did one in my NA car. The fuel pump didnt turn on when i went to start it. Everything is hooked up correctly but there's a connector coming off of the float and i cant for the life of me figure out where it goes. Is it somewhere in the tank? I never remember even touching that on my other ones but my buddies were working on that car as well so idk what they did. Anyone?
It's always broken.
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