My 95 240sx KA24DET T3T04E 50 Trim .63 A/R (UPDATE 5-13-10)

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My 95 240sx KA24DET T3T04E 50 Trim .63 A/R (UPDATE 5-13-10)

Post by aaronlee97 »

All right guys, I've been around on this forum learning for a long time. Had my first 240sx which was also a 95 and turbo'd it using the SR T25 setup. On that setup I was running:

- SR T25
- SR 370cc Injectors
- Large FMIC with S13 SR Piping
- SR 3" Downpipe
- Greddy Knock Off BOV
- eBay Tubular Bottom Mount T25 Manifold
- eBay Tubular Turbo Dump
- Koyo Radiator
- Manual Boost Controller
- JWT ECU
- AEM Uego Wideband
- Cheap 6 Puck Clutch
- Taurus Fan Conversion
- Q45 Front Brakes

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I ran that setup at 12psi and it was fun for a year. I never had it dynoed but I always wondered what I was running. Then suddenly I started losing vacuum and couldn't figure out why. At that time I was real busy and couldn't mess with it so I sold it to a 17 year old who loved 240s. I told him about the vacuum problem but he didn't care. 3 months later he told me the turbo went out. From that I learned that the SR T25 turbos definitely needed to have the coolant lines hooked up. Unfortunately I was misinformed by a local 240 enthusiast and listened to him.

Anyhow it took me a year of pain and suffering before I could get another 240 and here I am now with my current turbo setup which took me a year to gather.

Suspension:
- Solid Subframe Bushings from Nissan Infiniti Performance (Rides Great, not loud)
- KYB AGX's
- Stock Springs
- 300zx NA Wheels with 245/45/16 Tires
- 15mm Spacers in Front and 25mm Spacers in Rear

Brakes:
- 300zx 26mm Calipers Front and 300zx Rear Brakes
- R33 Ebrake Cables
- Less Drilled and Slotted Rotors
- Hawk HPS Pads

Turbo:
- Turbonetics T3/T04E 50 Trim .63 A/R
- Turbo Blanket
- 38mm Tial Wastegate set at 16psi
- My own Log Manifold Styled after the JGS
- My Own Turbo Dump Pipe
- SR 3" Downpipe Modified
- Megan Performance Turbo N1 Style 3" Catback with 4" Tip
- Catco 3" Hi Flow Cat
- CXRacing 26x6.5x2.5 Intercooler with Piping for S13 SR20DET
- Synapse BOV
- Enthalpy Tuned ECU
- Nismo 740cc Injectors
- 300zx MAF
- Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
- MSD SCI Ignition
- MSD Tachometer Adapter
- MSD Blaster SS Coil
- Stock S14 Distributor Using MSD Adapter for External Coil
- Whitebunny Clutch Setup using D21 Flywheel and D21 Autozone Performance Clutch
- 280z Aluminum Fidanza Flywheel and Lightweight Pulleys Coming Soon
- Oil Feed Adapters from McMasterCarr
- Oil Return Hose from ATPTurbo
- 1 Piece Aluminum Driveshaft from Shaftmasters
- AEM Uego Wideband
- EGT Gauge from GlowShift
- Boost Gauge from GlowShift
- Stock Cooling Fans to be changed to Altima Fans Soon
- Misc Hoses and Clamps from Autozone
- Home Depot Barb Fittings
- A few Autozone Exhaust Pipes
- Some Misc Couplers

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I know the engine bay looks unorganized here, and I've since straighted things up. Please ignore the pink hose because it is all that I had and it works great! Notice the top mount wastegate?

I went with the Taurus Fan conversion again because I like the way the engine sounds after removing the clutch fan and the timing chain guides, and I have never had any problems with overheating, it turns on and off by itself even with the A/C, it frees up power, it is cheap, and it's easy to do.

Anyway, on this current setup I am running 2 springs in the wastegate that total up to 16psi, but I see 14psi at the boost gauge which is fine with me. The car is so much faster than the last one and the power keeps coming on strong after 5500 and doesn't die off like with the T25 setup. The driveshaft makes low RPM shifting easy on the engine and helps it not to bog. The suspension holds up strong and with the solid bushings there is really no loud noise coming from the back, it's not too rough, and the clunking completely disappeared. The MSD Ignition helps prevent spark blowout from what I understand and it also provides more power per PSI from what I have read. The main reason I went with it is because of the gas mileage and power benefits I have read about here and because I eventually plan on running more than 15psi in the future at some point which the stock distributor is limited to. Making the manifold and pipes myself was a lot of work and a lot of fun too. It saved me several hundred dollars and I learned a TON about cutting, welding, and grinding.

Overall, the car is extremely quiet and sleeper and is fast as hell. I plan on getting it dynoed soon, but I'm not sure when I will ever go to the track. I just posted because I figured that it was about time to share with my fellow enthusiasts the things that I have learned from this great website and to show the fruits of my labor. Let me know what you think, and I will try to dyno soon and post it up here.

Thanks for all your help guys!
Last edited by aaronlee97 on Thu May 13, 2010 11:54 am, edited 21 times in total.
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Post by Markdawg20 »

Nice build(s). What did you use to mount the Taurus fans?
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Post by 1993ka24det »

looks great but what is with the air filter, a lot of hot air
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Post by aaronlee97 »

To mount the Taurus fan all I had to do is trim the bottom of the shroud to fit in the lip of the stock radiator. I made it a nice, straight line of thick plastic so it would fit in that groove. After that I just used the screws that mounted the factory shroud on the top with some large, flat washers and it does not move at all. You can either do that or drill tiny holes in the shroud and buy some radiator zip ties from autozone and mount it up that way. Both ways work just fine.

For the Taurus fan to work, all you have to do is get the SHO 2 speed Taurus Fan with Pig Tail and crimp the end to the exact same spot where the A/C fan wires hook up. I just used both of the ground wires from the stock harness and joined them together into one and hooked it right in using quick connects. Other than that, change the stock 30amp fuse to a 50 amp one and you're done. Comes on all by itself with the A/C and when the temp gets hot. Never had any problems. Once the fan kicks on you may notice the drain, but its normal as far as I know. If your idle drops too much when it kicks on just adjust the Idle screw a bit.

I realize that the air filter could be in a better area, but I have yet to make the pipe which will put it to the driver's side. The performance does not appear to be affected at all though.
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Post by sdaigle240 »

nice, but did i miss what your tuning with?
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Post by aaronlee97 »

Yeah, can't believe I forgot to put that in..HAHA!

I have an Enthalpy Tuned ECU. AFRs run from 11.5-12 as far as I can see thus far. When I dyno I will see how true that is.
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Post by aaronlee97 »

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/6259 ... no1oc3.jpg
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/122/ ... no2xy8.jpg
I was surprised when I found out that I'm only making 288hp and 270tq. I was thinking that at around 14psi with this turbo I should be closer to 350hp. I noticed an exhaust leak where my manifold meets the head near the distributor. I'm thinking that by fixing that a bit more power can be made. Any suggestions?
Last edited by aaronlee97 on Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:24 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by aaronlee97 »

As it stands right now I will be fixing the leak with some of that 2000 degree rtv that JGS sells. Hopefully it will work.
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Post by nissanfanatic »

.63ar T04E 50trim is a great setup. I would like to market my old setup. It looks like you are a set of good tires away from having a great handling street/track beater. I would try a set of Dunlop Direzza Star Specs or Kuhmo XSs.

For your power issue... Most people making 350whp on 14psi are running a tubular manifold. The log design creates some drag by nature. You cannot force air to turn rapidly and not incur some drag. Aside from that, you will need to see what timing values you are running. You can also look at MAFS voltage. This will tell you if you are actually ingesting the required air to make 350whp. If you are, then it is some tuning issue. If not, you have a restriction in the system somewhere.

Have you tried running the car without the cat?
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Post by aaronlee97 »

I would honestly love to, but I'm trying to get it setup so that I can pass emissions here in TX. All I need to do now is hook up the EGR and I think I might be able to pass.

Right now my intake is only a 2 1/2" crush bent pipe from Autozone because I haven't had time to get something else. Also, there is not much room in the engine bay the way things are positioned so I've been having difficulty finding the right steel piping that is 3" and mandril bent so I can weld in the proper fittings for recirculation of BOV and Crankcase vent.

I am considering upgrading to a tubular manifold but I'm not sure which one to use. I like the one that you are using Cory, but how much does it cost and where can you get it from? I like how the JGS log manifold places the turbo in a forward position because it gives more room away from the BMC and allows me to have more room to fabricate the downpipe. I'm hoping that the turbo sealant takes care of the leaky manifold issue.
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Post by sdaigle240 »

http://store.racing-solutions.org/index.html is the **** for bends

that sucks man we can usually pass the sniffer up here wo egr
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Post by nissanfanatic »

My manifold is a Full Race manifold. I do not recommend it for budget setups unless you spend all of your money on your car, which I guess does not support most peoples' definition of budget. My budget is my car.

Look into the XcessiveManufacturing or Peakboost manifolds. Those are some cheaper alternatives, or just keep an eye out on the for sale sections.

Crush bent is definitely hurting you. I would definitley replace those sections ASAP.

That is a good site sdaigle240. I usually get mine from http://racepartsolutions.com/categories.asp?cat=46 because they are in Florida and ship fast. The site you listed is much cheaper. I will definitely give them a shot next time I need some mandrel bends.

As far as the cat idea, I was just implying removing the cat for a test run, or while on the dyno preferrably just to see if there is a difference.

Also, for emissions testing do they actually use a sniffer or just pull ECU data?
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Post by TryingToTurbo »

here in NC, they do a 'visual' inspection to see if you have a cat/egr/etc.
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Post by aaronlee97 »

Thanks for the websites guys! I will take a look at their prices and probably order a few bends so that I can make some intake piping.

Here in TX they use a sniffer if it's OBD1, and its not required to have the EGR hooked up if you can decrease your NOX emissions enough. I am not sure if it will pass as it is right now, but if it does then I have no need to hook up my EGR.
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Post by nissanfanatic »

TryingToTurbo wrote:here in NC, they do a 'visual' inspection to see if you have a cat/egr/etc.
I would just keep the stuff insalled, but block the EGR internally, gut the cat, and weld a 3" pipe on the inside of the cat to ensure smooth flow. All the looks with none of the flaws. I may actually do this on my car just in case...

And BTW, keep an eye out on the Zilvia For Sale forums. They are very active(four pages a day). I know it's mostly drifters and crap, but good stuff rolls through there on occasion for good prices. The Freshalloy For Sale forums used to be good too, but it's pretty slow anymore. I still check them though. You can save a lot of money picking up used stuff.
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Post by Markdawg20 »

I think that www.siliconeintakes.com has some good prices on jank.

Are you on stock internals?
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Post by sdaigle240 »

wow kick ass site. at first i was like c'mon these prices arnt better then atp.....i kept lookin around and damn! reducers for 10 bucks!!!!! niiiiice def gettin my oil cooler from them too
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Post by aaronlee97 »

The internals are completely stock.

I'll be looking for a consult cable to check my timing. What program can I use to read it while i'm driving? Would you suggest just advancing my timing a degree or two in the meantime?
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Post by Kfred »

I wouldn't advance the timing unless i knew what it was to begin with. In the mean time, make a boost leak tester and check for leaks.
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Post by aaronlee97 »

Ok, I am also thinking about changing the setup to a blow through setup. Doing so will make it easier for me to make the intake work and will also allow me to run open BOV. I have read that the tune will need to change if I do this though, but will it read richer or leaner? I'm not quite sure why it would need to be retuned though.
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Post by aaronlee97 »

All right, I've found a boost leak tester for sale for about $25 here:

http://www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html

I know that you mentioned making one and I am looking that up as we speak.

Update: Found a great write up here:

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install ... ester.html
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Post by Kfred »

My boost leak tester cost me $4.

I bought a 3" pcv pipe plug, drilled a hole in it and pulled a tire valve stem through it. I had to grind down the threads off the sides to make it closer to 3" od so i could fit it in my turbo inlet coupler. Then if you have a tire chuck for your compressor you just pressurize the system like your filling a tire.

You don't have to buy any fancy guages either, just use a tire pressure guage.
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Post by aaronlee97 »

Sounds like a good idea. I will end up either building a cheap one or the more expensive one from the write up.
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Post by scarceas »

aaronlee97 wrote:Ok, I am also thinking about changing the setup to a blow through setup. Doing so will make it easier for me to make the intake work and will also allow me to run open BOV. I have read that the tune will need to change if I do this though, but will it read richer or leaner? I'm not quite sure why it would need to be retuned though.
I don't get it... I would expect to have nothing but problems from an open dump BOV with a car that uses a MAF sensor.

The sensor reads the air that goes through, the BOV dumps it, then ECU is going to run fuel for air that isn't there, and it runs rich.

I have read that the SAFC can "correct" for this effect but I have read a lot more people saying "I recirculated my BOV to the uncompressed side of the intake and all my idle problems went away".

So how does switching to blow through resolve the fundamental problem of dumping metered air out without the ECU knowing about it?
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Post by cleantune »

^^Great question! My understanding of the blowthrough setup is that it provides a more accurate reading of the air density because it is closer to the throttle body and reads the air after it has been compressed.
The traditional MAF location before the turbo does not account for the air lost through an atmospheric BOV, therefore the ECU never sees any air being lost, so there is super rich conditions everytime the BOV opens.
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Post by nissanfanatic »

It doesn't matter where the MAFS is located. It meters "Mass air flow". Density is accounted for.
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Post by cleantune »

^^thanks for clearing that up! haha You are right, the collective # air particles going through the MAF would be equal to the # air particles after the turbo compresses it, my mistake :oops:
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Post by daniel240sxs13 »

what exaust mani did u use?
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Post by Covertpolarbear »

the exhaust manifold is a home-made log manifold

Got the bends from SSS steel

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I helped aaron build it!

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Post by nissanfanatic »

cleantune wrote:^^thanks for clearing that up! haha You are right, the collective # air particles going through the MAF would be equal to the # air particles after the turbo compresses it, my mistake :oops:
Yes. Conservation of mass.
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