Heatbloom: Breeze (r32 ka24det)
- mattheripper
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Heatbloom: Breeze (r32 ka24det)
Hi my name is Matthew Schneider. I posted an intro years ago. Anyways, I need to start a build thread finally of my car. I started putting the ka into my car over two years ago but was in South Korea for the last two years completely. So its literally been sitting for two years. So I was trying to get the fuel out, tried just pumping it out the fuel rail feed hose, realized it was taking to long, so I asked my dad how to syphon gas but couldn't figure it out enough to go quick for the amount of gas I was drinking. So then I just decided to dump a bottle of fuel stabilizer in and see where I was at. And initially it wouldn't start for me.
http://youtu.be/ebSKU0SiIwQ
However after checking other things that could have gone wrong over the two years and finding they were fine. We tried some ether like in the video and it just purred. It'll run for as long as I tell it to, but it wont start up on its own gas. Any recommendations on how to syphon out gas...well?
Back in its rb days when it was a pure daily drift slut.
Back more than 2 years ago, I started moding the rb20 it had and about half the exhaust studs sheered off and then eeze outs sheered in them too. About the same time I happened upon 2 free running ka's and an engine harness that came with another low mile running ka. So that along with seeing the ka for its torque, bigger displacement 4cyl and sweet I decided to get the rb the heck out of there.
I was into being super ghetto and used cardboard paper to try to make some sheet metal skirts. Still my favorite pic of it though.
So the install was super straight forward as you'd expect from how easy the rb into s13 is. Basically all I did was reverse what people were saying and it bolted right up. One thing I was really surprised about was the exhaust plugged right into my r32 catalytic converter. The only thing that was a little difficult was the intake manifold is so bulky that it has to be manoeuvred really weird in order to slide it onto the "pilot" studs that are on either side of the head. Because the r32's have bigger strut towers and the brake master/righthand drive equipments. Only thing I disliked about the way the engine looks was the manifold. So I had this made to solve both these problems a little bit.
I feel like when the head sticks up all alone its own it looks better, just my taste. So thats why I wasn't down with just shortening the runners and welding a fat tube plenum on or buying other ones out there. Haha I bought a kreddy sr20 plenum and ask xcessive to cut and weld it to there ka flange. And they did a super good job. They even lengthened the runners so they wouldn't turn out to be 3" long. But still short enough to clear...I think...still have test fitted it...
Oh my gosh I striped the interior and it was the biggest mistake of my life.
I traded with some cash my abc exclusives and got a ka-t parts car.
So then I got some Mustang GTR replicas really just cause they were cheap 18x10's and it didn't look to bad right before I headed of to korea.
Also with the ka in the r32 bay you can easily do a high mount intercooler setup BEHIND the rad support with lots of room still.
But I still like front mounts better. So the plan is to sell the gt28 kit and go Holset HY35 on megasquirt so I can do maxima COPs and no maf.
I guess what I'm saying is I need post count to get to 100 so I can sell stuff. I was really shy about posting 2 years ago, but I'd like to get as much help as I can from the ka-t community so I can get it done asap. I'll also try to be as helpful as I can. Like with the plenum I want to maybe share dyno results with that change only.
http://youtu.be/ebSKU0SiIwQ
However after checking other things that could have gone wrong over the two years and finding they were fine. We tried some ether like in the video and it just purred. It'll run for as long as I tell it to, but it wont start up on its own gas. Any recommendations on how to syphon out gas...well?
Back in its rb days when it was a pure daily drift slut.
Back more than 2 years ago, I started moding the rb20 it had and about half the exhaust studs sheered off and then eeze outs sheered in them too. About the same time I happened upon 2 free running ka's and an engine harness that came with another low mile running ka. So that along with seeing the ka for its torque, bigger displacement 4cyl and sweet I decided to get the rb the heck out of there.
I was into being super ghetto and used cardboard paper to try to make some sheet metal skirts. Still my favorite pic of it though.
So the install was super straight forward as you'd expect from how easy the rb into s13 is. Basically all I did was reverse what people were saying and it bolted right up. One thing I was really surprised about was the exhaust plugged right into my r32 catalytic converter. The only thing that was a little difficult was the intake manifold is so bulky that it has to be manoeuvred really weird in order to slide it onto the "pilot" studs that are on either side of the head. Because the r32's have bigger strut towers and the brake master/righthand drive equipments. Only thing I disliked about the way the engine looks was the manifold. So I had this made to solve both these problems a little bit.
I feel like when the head sticks up all alone its own it looks better, just my taste. So thats why I wasn't down with just shortening the runners and welding a fat tube plenum on or buying other ones out there. Haha I bought a kreddy sr20 plenum and ask xcessive to cut and weld it to there ka flange. And they did a super good job. They even lengthened the runners so they wouldn't turn out to be 3" long. But still short enough to clear...I think...still have test fitted it...
Oh my gosh I striped the interior and it was the biggest mistake of my life.
I traded with some cash my abc exclusives and got a ka-t parts car.
So then I got some Mustang GTR replicas really just cause they were cheap 18x10's and it didn't look to bad right before I headed of to korea.
Also with the ka in the r32 bay you can easily do a high mount intercooler setup BEHIND the rad support with lots of room still.
But I still like front mounts better. So the plan is to sell the gt28 kit and go Holset HY35 on megasquirt so I can do maxima COPs and no maf.
I guess what I'm saying is I need post count to get to 100 so I can sell stuff. I was really shy about posting 2 years ago, but I'd like to get as much help as I can from the ka-t community so I can get it done asap. I'll also try to be as helpful as I can. Like with the plenum I want to maybe share dyno results with that change only.
Last edited by mattheripper on Wed Jul 16, 2014 3:18 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Disconnect the feed line in the front and connect to a hose going into a container and jump the fuel pump to stay on until you get most of the gas out.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
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- mattheripper
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No kidding. And there is way more coming for it. Sold the r32 MAX super angle kit off it and just waiting on coilovers to get it back sitting on the ground with super lowable s13 front suspensions. It really looks like junk town. Just pathetic. But the way the part gathering rate is going it should be cooler in maybe a month. On order now I have:Silviadream87 wrote:Poor car, didn't even see it coming!!!
HE341
BN knockoff
326 Power wing
15x10 & 16x10...
Rusty jdm coilovers
Brake master cyl. kit
Fire extinguisher
- mattheripper
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So what do all you think about this. I've never seen something like this done before which usually means there's a reason. Anyway I drilled and tapped in 12mmx1.5 holes for Volkswagon type wheel studs, pretty much until I get real 5-lug again or they break.
Basically r32's have a huge gheyness with low capabilities. So I decided to go s13 coilovers. And that's why I'm doing this ghetto 5-lug dealio. I feel like such a tard for getting my r32 knuckles modded by pbm but they sold for pretty decent and sold fast so it was okay, I guess. I measured up super well on the s13 parts car to basically make sure my car is basically exactly the same as an s13. I measured in reference to the frame rails and subframe bolts. Driftworks did this swap but from the looks of there top hat location they swung them out a good inch and a half outboard. Essentially making huge positive camber. And there's is sunk back making more negative castor. I'm sure its fine because they clear the big bulge that r32 and z32's have but like I want mine to be not messed up geometry wise. I'm actually sure it'll end up bang on.
Right now I just have the holes closest to the engine drilled. I got just some stock struts today to finish mocking them up, while I wait for the coilovers. But yeah most recent pic of the sad animal.
Right before I took out the r32 stuff I guess.
Basically r32's have a huge gheyness with low capabilities. So I decided to go s13 coilovers. And that's why I'm doing this ghetto 5-lug dealio. I feel like such a tard for getting my r32 knuckles modded by pbm but they sold for pretty decent and sold fast so it was okay, I guess. I measured up super well on the s13 parts car to basically make sure my car is basically exactly the same as an s13. I measured in reference to the frame rails and subframe bolts. Driftworks did this swap but from the looks of there top hat location they swung them out a good inch and a half outboard. Essentially making huge positive camber. And there's is sunk back making more negative castor. I'm sure its fine because they clear the big bulge that r32 and z32's have but like I want mine to be not messed up geometry wise. I'm actually sure it'll end up bang on.
Right now I just have the holes closest to the engine drilled. I got just some stock struts today to finish mocking them up, while I wait for the coilovers. But yeah most recent pic of the sad animal.
Right before I took out the r32 stuff I guess.
- mattheripper
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- mattheripper
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Forgot I got a bunch of parts last week. Tomorrow the plan is to run the engine bay harnesses through the steering column hole, then I'll be getting the two manifolds on and charging it for real. Does anyone have a stainless t3 flange?
Anyways I picked up a bunch of stuff from ebay, oil cooler, wastegate. And got my DIYPNP, and wideband. And finally picked up my holset. It was missing the main v-band lol.
- mattheripper
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- sdaigle240
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This is rad!
airman wrote:I'm all about spreadsheets. Bitches love spreadsheets.
schmauster920 wrote:I shall cast my own pistons in the sands of time, then forge them in the depths of hell.. as funds allow
hy35 18psi Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=38784
RIP MJL best friend of 20 years and the man who showed me 240s
- beercandrifter
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- mattheripper
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- mattheripper
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- mattheripper
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The xcessive part of the unit is awesome and the eBay part doesn't look all that bad. I can't see any big casting errors, not that I know what to look for but still lol. Only thin I can't find is fittings for boost vacuum lines...might give cxracing a call.airman wrote:How much was the intake mani? Build quality good?
- mattheripper
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- Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
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Same as a Hy35. IIRC they come on the same truck, just depends on if it was auto or manual.
Basically a HX35 7-blade compressor mated to a smaller turbine wheel with a smaller turbine housing. This turbo would have less airflow potential than a HX35.
Jmac636 is using one..
viewtopic.php?t=54437
Basically a HX35 7-blade compressor mated to a smaller turbine wheel with a smaller turbine housing. This turbo would have less airflow potential than a HX35.
Jmac636 is using one..
viewtopic.php?t=54437
- mattheripper
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So in layman terms the he341 should be able to spool quicker? Does the 35 vs. 34 number refer to some size of the turboes? It's embarrassing how little I know of turboes lol. But holsets are weird...Super Coupe wrote:Same as a Hy35. IIRC they come on the same truck, just depends on if it was auto or manual.
Basically a HX35 7-blade compressor mated to a smaller turbine wheel with a smaller turbine housing. This turbo would have less airflow potential than a HX35.
Jmac636 is using one..
viewtopic.php?t=54437
Sweet I'll check his thread out later. What holset do you have there?
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^ Should spool faster. The comp cover and wheel are also slightly smaller than a HX if I recall correctly, hence the "basically" part.
I have a HX40 (super 40) with a bolt on T3 .63ar housing. It has the 7 blade billet wheel, 69lb min compressor. The billet wheel is stupid expensive at a cummins dealer.
You can read up on holsets via dsmtuners. A lot of guys over there are using basically every holset/ combination possible.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-s ... t-8-a.html
I have a HX40 (super 40) with a bolt on T3 .63ar housing. It has the 7 blade billet wheel, 69lb min compressor. The billet wheel is stupid expensive at a cummins dealer.
You can read up on holsets via dsmtuners. A lot of guys over there are using basically every holset/ combination possible.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-s ... t-8-a.html
- mattheripper
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- mattheripper
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Yeah it'd be cool if I stayed the only one too. But that shouldn't be hard no matter how hard we prove the ka is awesome.
Today I semi finished up my harness relocation. So I knotched two holes around the steering column hole. And put the two harnesses that usually go though the inner fender through the steering column hole. I pulled out of the chassis harness the wires that give power to the ecu. Then ran the chassis harness along the right frame rail and the engine harness goes from the steering column hole straight and underneath my manifold. It going to be super tucked. Just hope I don't get any bad connections from all the moving around. Here's a pic of where harnesses are going through the column hole.
Nothing but wheel and colorful control arms in my wells Awesome.
Today I semi finished up my harness relocation. So I knotched two holes around the steering column hole. And put the two harnesses that usually go though the inner fender through the steering column hole. I pulled out of the chassis harness the wires that give power to the ecu. Then ran the chassis harness along the right frame rail and the engine harness goes from the steering column hole straight and underneath my manifold. It going to be super tucked. Just hope I don't get any bad connections from all the moving around. Here's a pic of where harnesses are going through the column hole.
Nothing but wheel and colorful control arms in my wells Awesome.
- Walperstyle
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- mattheripper
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That skyline is probably so light haha. Dang 500ponypowers, that's so freakin tons, I'll definitely not have a thing to brag to him about lol. Does he have a build thread out anywhere? Why does he do with the car?
I sold the gt28 turbo kit I once had for this car, so now I have money for drifting yay!
I sold the gt28 turbo kit I once had for this car, so now I have money for drifting yay!
- mattheripper
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Been going hard trying to get everything on to make this manifold on my engine, but there just seems to be tons of little things. Since I'm in a r32 rhd bay it was binding on my clutch master, so I put in a 180sx clutch master which is about 3/4" shorter. Another thing was I wasn't sure how to make the injectors seal so I thought, I might have to swap to to topfeeds for the Xcessive's ka flange. So I test fitted my old rb20 injectors and rail. But I how the topfeed shoot straight up.
I realized all I might be able to use the little o-rings from my old rb intake, since the stock ka manifold has huge donut o-rings and the Xcessive flange is more topfeed style. Anyways for now I might just be putting the stock one on. Kinda yesterday was a ton of disappointments trying to get it for real on.
Pretty awesome thing happened yesterday. Stopped by at a persons house with a old Datsun and he gave it to me. This will probably pop up in my thread every now and then. 1972ish 1200 Deluxe
I realized all I might be able to use the little o-rings from my old rb intake, since the stock ka manifold has huge donut o-rings and the Xcessive flange is more topfeed style. Anyways for now I might just be putting the stock one on. Kinda yesterday was a ton of disappointments trying to get it for real on.
Pretty awesome thing happened yesterday. Stopped by at a persons house with a old Datsun and he gave it to me. This will probably pop up in my thread every now and then. 1972ish 1200 Deluxe
- mattheripper
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I've been pricing out rebuilds lately and am lacking some knowledge. I'm curious about what compression piston to get. And I'm not really sure exactly how the spec relates to different out comes.
How low is too low compression?
How much spool time do I lose typically going down 0.2:1 etc?
If I'm only ever going to use pump gas is a 8.4:1 piston super stupidly low?(I'm prett sure I saw those yesterday)
I kinda wanted to open a thread on this but I feel like this is something everybody but me knows or I can't find any of the threads talking about it.
I read a sweet basic article yesterday that was more in detail about why low comp pistons are done, had formulas and stuff. That was really informative. Kinda wanna hear some stuff about ka specific compression information. Especially what can be done with what and if there is a formula for figuring out what kinda spool gain time I can get with 0.2:1 higher comp pistons etc etc. I'm wanting to read some books about tuning. But I don't have the time right now.
How low is too low compression?
How much spool time do I lose typically going down 0.2:1 etc?
If I'm only ever going to use pump gas is a 8.4:1 piston super stupidly low?(I'm prett sure I saw those yesterday)
I kinda wanted to open a thread on this but I feel like this is something everybody but me knows or I can't find any of the threads talking about it.
I read a sweet basic article yesterday that was more in detail about why low comp pistons are done, had formulas and stuff. That was really informative. Kinda wanna hear some stuff about ka specific compression information. Especially what can be done with what and if there is a formula for figuring out what kinda spool gain time I can get with 0.2:1 higher comp pistons etc etc. I'm wanting to read some books about tuning. But I don't have the time right now.
- 500hpKA240sx
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it all depends on your application. how much boost do you plan on running? anything 20 pounds or so 9:1 is fine but if you going to start pushing 25ish and up you might want to go down to 8:1. and to answer your question WHATS TOO LOW OF COMP. if your running N/A anything in the 7's is what i would say is too low you would have to run 4th gear on any hill or possibly even 3rd. but being boosted im not real sure but you have to have compression in order to have power. so if your dropping to much comp. then your wasting your time boosting. but post what psi your planning on shooting for and have these guys give you a bit more info.mattheripper wrote:I've been pricing out rebuilds lately and am lacking some knowledge. I'm curious about what compression piston to get. And I'm not really sure exactly how the spec relates to different out comes.
How low is too low compression?
How much spool time do I lose typically going down 0.2:1 etc?
If I'm only ever going to use pump gas is a 8.4:1 piston super stupidly low?(I'm prett sure I saw those yesterday)
I kinda wanted to open a thread on this but I feel like this is something everybody but me knows or I can't find any of the threads talking about it.
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
- mattheripper
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The thing is I'm wanting to kinda grow all over with this turbo. I've yet to set a psi or even horsepower goal. As of current the highest horsepower I've handled is 220hp provided my stock rb20 did what factory told it too. I'm thinking I'll atleast creep over 300hp and from dyno sheets I've seen on here with the same he341/hy35 turbo that was like 13psi iirc. But if I do so choose I'd like to be able to go up to 450hp tops which I've seen too is like upwards of 21psi. What do you guys think? If you need to pick at my preferences a bit more in order to assist me just ask up:)
- 500hpKA240sx
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just be sure to run forged bottom end with shaved head and block. 9:1 should be fine. but its personal preference i know some motors are built to run 14:1 comp boosted. but that being said, those are down right B U I L T motors. really depends on how deep your pockets are.
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed
Paul Walker- 1973-2013 Race In Paradise. you will be forever missed