New to the S chassis

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Joined: Wed Dec 25, 2019 9:31 am

New to the S chassis

Post by ThisGuyTR » Wed Dec 25, 2019 10:06 am

Hey guys.. not 100% where this question goes... lol, this is the Sht show i just got into.

so i just picked up a 1990 240 se with a swapped KA24de-T, i got the car about 4 weeks ago now non running, slowly been diagnosing all my problems. finally got it running and have just been working on all and little things. i like to try and do things the right way so, yes. ive been using the search and most of the problems ive fixed?.. i think lol.. so far ive done all the basics, replaced most of the sensors got it running okay. and now im stumped, will run but the throttle response is total trash... i found my 02 was melted to its self... replaced that and its a little better but im worried it fried the ECU, is there a way to check to see if my ECU is okay?

1990 240sx SE
94? KA24DE
Comp tested 150~160psi
Wiring specialty harness
Greddy boost controller/TT
WB255 fuel pump
EGR delete.
CX ebay turbo kit. non recerc bov
T3/T4 t04e
370cc DW injectors? dark red?
A12-001 B57 4 SR20? ecu with a sq-creations chip.

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Re: New to the S chassis

Post by Marcus » Thu Jan 23, 2020 4:03 pm

I'm not familiar with that ecu setup; However if you're still mafs you're going to want to recirculate that bov.
Also for your response problem check your mafs or clean it and TPS voltage. Im guessing your TPS might be bad.

On these older cars now as well try to look below the intake manifold and see if the knock sensor is cracked from the center out. I've found many doing this.

Welcome to the KA world!

Dreams of owning a 240!
Posts: 93
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Location: Northeastern KS

Re: New to the S chassis

Post by NukeKS14 » Wed Jan 29, 2020 7:59 pm

^That man knows his stuff. I second the TPS check. >Here is a link on how to check/adjust it<

Do you smell fuel/is the car running rich? Don't see any mention of a wideband O2 sensor on your list. I would HIGHLY discourage any changes to boost without the ability to monitor your AFRs and tune for them (I see you are chipped, just a note on the boost controller.)

What sensors, other than the O2, did you replace exactly? A melted O2 sensor will not fry the ECU, FYI, but to directly answer your question, if you're genuinely concerned about the ECU, make sure you disconnect your negative battery terminal first but you can remove your ECU and take the cover off to visually inspect the boards for damage/leaky capacitors. I highly doubt this is your problem though.

Can you elaborate on the throttle response being trash? Like you can't even free-rev the engine from idle(indicating it might be in limp mode) or, when you're on the highway response sucks. If it idles fine and you can free rev it but response sucks while driving, I would do a boost leak check. If you don't have a boost leak tester, make one. They're cheap and extremely valuable.

Welcome and enjoy the torque!


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