www.ka-t.org

Freise wrote:I used rtv rather than a gasket and have had no issues with leaking

what color of RTV did you use? Did you use the grey stuff?

if you keep the IACV, use both. Coat the gasket in a light film of of copper spray, should work just the same. actually I did do copper spray on the gasket when I installed it. I may try and use RTV sealant also or use another IACV that I have laying around. Maybe the surface of the one currently o...

nobody else have problems with this leaking?

You may be able to just plug in values in that you know will make your car run lean and adjust from there? be sure of no boost leaks because that can make it run rich. Unless of course you're running a MAP sensor.

Walperstyle wrote:Uh yeah, that link is not that great. This one is better.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

worked "great" for me. 600+ hp on both engines and 3-5% leakdown numbers.

I know this doesnt help you with all of your questions. But I followed this breakin procedure exactly with my evo engine that I built and my dsm engine that I built. http://amsperformance.com/instructions/EngineBreakInInstructions.pdf running too lean really isnt a concern during breakin unless for ...

I can't say I like that video. Crashes and explosions are lost on me. Its a part of getting older. Maybe its the work that went involved in the machines. I like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0sJVZO9xUB4&feature=related (its this same reason why I hate the Transformers movies too) I agree...

Just wondering if any of you all have had boost leaks from the IACV? I tried a new nissan gasket and torqued it to spec and it's still leaking boost. It seems as if it's mostly leaking from one of the 4 bolts that holds it down.

any kind of RTV sealant help?

I dial in my k-value by turning off O2 feedback and zeroing out the first 5 or so load columns in the fuel map. Then at a steady 50-60mph cruise I adjust the k-value until I get close to a 14.7 afr. Then I check the afrs at idle. If they are off I adjust the injector dead time until it is close to ...

well, just rebuilt the turbo and did a boost leak test and NO more air is coming from the oil drain line. I'm not confident the turbo will spool like normal. Just need to get the car started and test it.

supakat wrote:Sounds like turbo is shot and air is going through the thrust bearing/seals.

I ordered a rebuild kit next day air. I'm going to attempt it myself as long as I see that the shaft/center section isnt damaged.

Nobody has had this problem? blowing boost into the oil drain line? lol dude i wouldnt be to concerned about the air out of the drain line, it would be almost impossible to leak that much boost out of the drain line especialy with no oil in the intake. Also technically there is only vaccum at the i...

Nobody has had this problem? blowing boost into the oil drain line? lol

old thread I know.

But couldnt you also adjust MAF translation to help aid this?

I have mine Vented to the atmosphere on 3 turbo cars.

Have never had an issue.

Well, I don't know how this translates to the 240 BUT I got curious and boost leak tested my DSM which has a holset HX-40. And Boost leak tested my Evo which has a GT35R. Neither one had any air coming from the oil drain lines. I don't know much about turbo internals but I do know : GT35R is a ball ...

well got the car started and driving fine. just getting NO boost lol

I made a new thread about it here: /viewtopic.php?t=57308


It's always something when turboing a car lol

If you read the timing marks on the crank pulley from left to right I think it's this.

5* ATDC
TDC
5*BTDC
10*BTDC
15*BTDC
20*BTDC


My timing is set to the last mark. If I have this mixed up and backwards then please let me know because then it would definetly be wrong.

supakat wrote:I wonder if the boost gauge is damaged.

Boost gauge seems to be working fine. While driving I don't hear the charger start to spool really.

I will do a quick double check with my air compressor though.

Made either a small discovery or a big discovery not sure which I did another boost leak test and heard/felt air coming out of the oil cap and have heard oil bubbling as if it's being pressurized. I know that can mean bad compression rings but my leak-down test tested good. So, I then pulled the oil...

well I just pulled the top off of the wastegate. The Diaphram looks fine. No tears or any signs of excessive heat. I was thinking maybe exhaust turbine blades are bad. So I then started the car. revved the car up and pulled the MAF tube off and the turbo was spinning even though there was a HUGE pre...

If you are positive that the wastegate/fire ring is installed correctly and is no leaking, it could be the turbo. I remember a thread not too long ago where this individual had no boost leaks and good compression but would only boost like 5 psi regardless of boost control/wastegate settings. I thin...

PuNcHdRuNk wrote:any pics of the wg settup? on most gates there is a little metal sealing collar that goes up against the plunger and sometimes people leave this out by mistake.........

The sealing collar was installed.

supakat wrote:Sounds like WG issues. Just out of curiosity, where did you boost leak test from?

The compressor housing on the turbo.

well...could'nt sleep all night cuz all I can think about is the car. lol So I just pulled the wastegate off to check it. It has sealing pressure. Nothing looks out of the ordinary. But I haven't taken the snap ring off to inspect the diaphram yet. I will be getting some snap ring pliars later on to...

Well, the title says the general gist of things :( . I just today got my car running again after a head swap when I had a spark plug seize into the head. I have a new head. I loaded up a stock KADE S14 map into Nistune, changed my injectors to 810cc. Changed my MAF to a Z32. And hell yeah it started...

well got the car started it was a tuning issue. still not totally out of the clear though. the car will idle fine but has a BAD stumbling issue. will harly pull a hill sometime.

Sorry to revive an old thread. I am having idle issues and plan on disconnecting my coal canister tomorrow. My question has to do with the TPS when you convert "back" to a ODB I ECU. I have 95 ODB I ECU running a Nistune type 4 board in my 98 240sx. Since the ECU is a 95 ECU would it be be...

well, made another small discovery.

I adjusted my crank enrichment in Nistune to almost nothing and the car will start and stay started as long as I keep my foot on the throttle.

AFR's are around 14.7/1.00 when I'm doing this. Just seems strange that I have to adjust this a CRAZY amount.

well, made a small discovery today.


If I try and start it the car won't start. BUT after that i'll pull the injector plugs off so the injectors won't fire. THEN it will start for a moment then die.

I then re-plugged the injectors in and it stayed started but had a bad mis-fire.