www.ka-t.org

I always had issue with using TPS based AE. MAP makes it a bit better/easier for me. Personally if you're using a MS3 then you can use accel pump, and that is super easy. But if you're on a MS2 board, then I would try 100 map based settings just to get you in the ball park. Generally going to MAP ba...

Have you looked into the DET3 from ECUMasters? It's a piggyback that will do MAF delete. You have to tune with the MAF first, and once you get it dialed in decently you can convert to the Onboard MAP sensor pretty quickly. All you have to do is drive it while it's logging (like WOT, cruise, idle etc...

what about an adapter harness? Rywire sells them.

I use a taurus fan on my MKIII Supra. I've done the Altima friends for a friend's RB20 S13 and those things can move some air!

The UEGO can emulate the narrow band signal, there's a lil hole in the back where you can adjust it with a screw. There's a few different settings.

http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/MA ... ISSANS.PDF

glad that you figured it out. That's the pdf from JWT

hello fellow texan,

what ecu are you running? "tuned ecu" is rather vague.

you guys can't use a t2 manifold for a 240??

there are two ways I've done it the right nissan FSM way, and the i-don't-feel-like-waiting-way. FSM way, jack the car up as high as you can in the front, open radiator cap and coolant burp hole on intake manifold (cold of course). with the car off fill up until the burp hole starts to spill fluid, ...

silvia front with a hacked up pignose front lip!

search for a username of pandas14. He built a high compression, ITB'ed KA. Then he went turbo lol.

Trippen: That's an awesome ass post, bookmarked for future read/reference.

Kfred, but with a DSM/honda resistor back you can have an OEM looking connector, plus you can build a bypass plug, and it'll be easy to replace if something ever goes bad.

damn, sounds like another case of too-much-boost-not-enough-vtec, I've seen this time and time again.....

On a serious note, that sucks, what were your unning for management?

Actually, I'm pretty sure the Sards are 880cc. The side feed toyota's (JDM 2jz) guys use them, but for the money, you're better off converting to top fed, with rail. Considering AEM now makes a top feed rail for the KA. Also FPR would be a good way of doing it too, remember you only need 30% more fu...

lol I do a lot of work with Majestic. Stand up place, their shop looks kinda broke down on the outside (but so does everything in Waco), but they do great work, turn-around time has always been great with Majestic.

I use STRI gauges, x-lines also! I love the bright LED's in them. (shameless plug: I'm a dealer for them too, PM for pricing). Anyway I prefer electrical over mechanical for two reason; 1) Easier to install (like you stated) 2) Never have to worry about hot coolant or oil flying everywhere behind yo...

Yes in a perfect that's how it would work, but unfortunately it doesn't work that way. I'm sorry I can't provide a scientific answer to this one, but yes the return line doesn't have pressure, it's gravity drained.

correct senor

zenkiBruce wrote:You guys might hate me....but...

















I think i just wanna swap in a vh45de and turbo it..

KA24DET FTW < VH45DET FTMFW

I'm with ya, no replacement for displacement. If you do it, you better post here on your build.

You got a pic of this return? Sounds like a return issue to me. Remember that the turbo is gravity drained.

sdaigle240 wrote:my friend has lots of issues with his EFI

x2


Yes I'd go down on gap, if you searched you'll realize that everyone is at about 28.

I know I do, that's why I still lurk around this forum, that and this forum is actually the best there is. Everyone is nice, and funny, and no one gets butt hurt, even after some flaming. I really miss the throttle response on a decent sized turbo on a KA. Just giving her throttle and start moving. ...

I went through it, it was just a million times easier and faster that way. And besides you need that extra weight in the front to help shift it to the back on hard launches, and especially when vtec kicks in.

I couldn't get the gizzmo launch interface to work, but they have the worlds greatest shift light lol

The JGS turbo manifold clears pretty good.

Holset all the way! I've never used one but I've seen lots of the dyno's it'd be worth it. That and it's t3 flanged, and still internally wastegated so it'd make things a lot easier.

here's a something that's a bit off topic, but the Billy Mayes just passed away a day or so ago. I believe it was Saturday.

well my s14 was a non abs, manual, so it cleared pretty good, but I had heat wrap, and a turbo blanket, so not a big deal. On my s13 vert that manifold barely cleared, and I didn't trust it enough, so I just went ahead and purchased a manifold from...someone I can't remember who lol, but it was a tu...

I know on mine it was at ten psi or so. On my supra, it goes to about nine to ten psi when warm. This was on conventional oil.

You've already got your answer, do the cap and rotor next.