www.ka-t.org

looks like a nissan trans to me.

dont shave it if its not out of spec. you can also take some of the warp out of the head with a oil stone and an hour. i have done this before with out taking the intake off the head or taking the head out of the truck.

paint it and post pimp painted carbon pics.

your going to run a topline rebuild kit? if you are take the timeing guides and throw them in the garbage and get a set of steel backed plastic guides. i only changed my lose tensioner about 30K ago and now i have about 3/4 of a tight guide left. i have about $400 into the rebuild so im just going t...

defenatly check your oil gap. it shouldnt turn by hand but breaker bar is a tad stiff, kind of depends on how hard you have to push/pull it.

i saw a pic about a year ago where a guy made a drop out section of his factory tank to attach the AN fittings to.

i would do dual 2.5in with good quiet mufflers.
defenatly stainless 304 or 308
http://store.racing-solutions.org/bendkits.html
looks like $140 for 304 SS not including streight pipe.

HAHA i got you all, NOTHING IN THE PAST 2 months.
i just drive her 50 miles every day, thats al.

i love lime green. BOO for painting the factory rear sway bar to look like a ST.
gold is preaty sweet also. i painted my cross memeber in my truck that color. can you say GOLD MEMBER.
defenatly go gold or bronze rims.

green is for the money gold is for the honneys.

Matt_101 wrote:BUMP

anyone know if sohc and dohc throwouts are the same?

dont you know how to look up part numbers on www.autozone.com?

when does it make the noise? when you put your foot on the pedal?

i use a auto parts brand bearing. it was around $50 and havent had a problem. what makes you think your TOB screwed your clutch?

so your shutting the car off then starting it right back up? whats the point in that.
the super budget turbo timer is the KEY.

nice!! that motor is huge and the rad cap on the Tsat houseing is factory pimp.

if your state dosnt require yout check engine light to be out for an inspection then dont do a damn thing. if so how long to you have until you need an inspection?

theres pics all over this forum and you have both of the front ends so get the hell away from your computer.

why 321 series?

its mud. get some rad flush and flush the hell out of it. you may also get some electrolisis (cant spell) from running a non grounded aluminum rad. try sticking a volt meter test lead in the coolant with the engine running. theres a spec on ho wmany volts max it should be, you might check the FSM fo...

it is easier to stall with a lighter weight drive line and defenatly easier with a puck clutch. basicly you have to change your driveing style by hitting the gas before you let the clutch out, the lag in the gas petal should make this seamless. also if you dont get on the gas quick enough after shif...

you need to hook the back two straps to somthing at or above your sholder hight. so the floor bar is a no go. they make harness bars i sugest you get one of those.

that manifold and seller of the manifold are junk. if you read the head line it said it fits a KA24 then you read further it fits a SR20. the seller dont know what there talking about or have the business sence to read over the things that make them money. i also highly doubt that manifold has 1/2in...

what WRX was that?

if this is your DD get another car to be your DD before you do any thing.

makeing wet spots in front of your tires will kind of kill the deal.

defenatly over priced. theres about 1K in things that there missing to make it complete, not including labor if your not into that sort of thing.

dont think auto trans harness will fit. you only really need the reverse sensor hooked up

thats a preaty damn good number for a T-25. im running a rb20 turbo and im thinking i have about 220-230hp, the ceramic turbine make it spool FAST.

its a piston with a rubber cover and a seal inside. pop the piston out pull the rubbers off. clean every thing up to see if you need to hone it. put it all back in the way it came apart.

i "rebuilt" my rear calipers with no parts becids some anti seaze and a wire brush.

where the hell was he going at the last second in the vid, when he got air? he looked preaty wreckless to me.

those rims are streight WOOD GRAIN BALLER.

yout talking about a bead hone. that the final step, and use oil when you do it.