ka-t or rb25det or 2jzgte or ls1 or rb26dett

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93s13ka-t
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Post by 93s13ka-t »

i did have a kat but i sold it that why i havent been on in a long time, and i do all my work i dont trust shops. i am in the process of selling my mustang, and my dad is going to let me use one of his cars until i get the money saved up for mine so all i will need to save up is 6 grand plus what ever i get from my mustang extra and i can do any of these swaps it helps when u do all the work your self, all the reason i started this thread is because i have been researching engines all month and i am tired of changing my mind so i thought i would ask the people that know more about the ka's and engine swaps more than i do all i know is i will never put an sr20 in it. just looking for advice and if anyone is researching for engine swaps this might help them i have never seen a forum like this.
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Post by pwjm »

Kfred wrote:I'm one of those guys who likes to see a car go fast reliably, using the least amount of money possible. I think everyone should be open minded and choose a motor not by whom makes it, but by how much it costs installed and how it performs (power and reliability wise).

Rb26 swap is stupid expensive and the motor is decent, but nothing too special. Its power output surely won't justify the cost.
one word: ECOTEC

lol I know that sounds crazy, but they are decent, and capable of some decent power for next to nothing... Also crate motors with ZERO miles on them go for less than 3500. How hard could it be to find a wrecked solstace or sky?
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Post by bui »

Kfred wrote:1jz if you aren't ballin'

Cheap and amazing. The 1jz bottom end has been known to hold 700whp, and the r154 transmission is pretty beefy as well.

If I could do it again i probably would have went this route. You don't have to build the bottom end, speed/density system, sounds like a ferrari with an open dump wastegate, cheap. If the motor blows you can pick up just the motor for $700 if you look hard enough.

2jz if your ballin'
Im so with you! 1jz FTW!!!

2jz, and RB's can be pretty damn expensive

You can do a complete 1jz swap for about $4500.. give or take
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Post by TryingToTurbo »

bui wrote:
Kfred wrote:1jz if you aren't ballin'

Cheap and amazing. The 1jz bottom end has been known to hold 700whp, and the r154 transmission is pretty beefy as well.

If I could do it again i probably would have went this route. You don't have to build the bottom end, speed/density system, sounds like a ferrari with an open dump wastegate, cheap. If the motor blows you can pick up just the motor for $700 if you look hard enough.

2jz if your ballin'
Im so with you! 1jz FTW!!!

2jz, and RB's can be pretty damn expensive

You can do a complete 1jz swap for about $4500.. give or take
The only thing that scared me away from the 1jz was lack of much aftermarket support, and lack of affordable tuning options.

I like the idea of staying ka b/c it makes good whp/tq when setup right, and there is no swap kit or wiring needed.

FWIW, my friend just finished his ls1 swap in his hatch. Swap kit was $2500, motorset was $3500. Then you add in dyno tune time, custom exhaust, custom intake, wiring service, gauges, speedo conversion, etc. It was not a cheap swap, and with the same amount of money I could make a ka-t with more whp and tq.

I have seen so many swap kits that are sub-par and many butchered qiring harnesses from online stores that have great feedback. I would much rather stay away from stuff like that because you could end up with your car on jackstands for months waiting for your swap kit or harness to get made right.

Either way, let us know how it goes!
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Post by nissanfanatic »

If I could start over, I would go with an LS1. Though all I really want is a reliable 450whp. One day, I would like to go to events and not have to pop the hood.
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Post by s14fiend »

TanManS14 wrote:LS1 swaps arent that expensive. If you get an ACTUAL ls1 yes. But motors can be had for 200-600 bucks if you get variations such as...

Iron block 6.0L Lq4 (about 80lb's heavier putting it near 500lb's)

and on top of that they dont make near the power an ls1 does.
I was going to do that the first time I destroyed the ring lands on the KA. But then I decided I wanted to stick with what was already in the car. I didn't want to have to go through the hassle of looking for a t56 and pulling out the motor from one of those 2001-2002 GMC trucks. Which I actually found one with great mileage 6.0 lq4 cast iron block. But I gave up since I didn't have a daily driver or the time to part everything together, especially since my KA-T was my daily driver at the time.

But yeah those lq4 motors are great. I am sure they run nice on spray to.
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Post by nismoz »

still haven't heard much said about an lt1 camaro
(285hp stock aluminum head engine) or corvette
(300hp stock aluminum head engine) the 3rd gen camaro 5spd will bolt up and is a junkyard item but want hold 550hp although a muncie 4spd will,i've seen these engines with harness and ecu sell for $600-$700 all day,5spd can be got for $200/$500 for the muncie but it's a 60's/70's era trans.there are numerous bolts-ons for this engine.but anyway there are 1200hp superchargerd sbc 377ci engines(carb' by the way) for $20,000 turn key.may cost a bit but take bout a day to put it in...




any idea's leaning at you yet 93s13??????
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93s13ka-t
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Post by 93s13ka-t »

lot of really good comments and points i am still deciding but thanks for the help.
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Post by R34SR »

i think youre more confused now than before you made this thread LOL
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TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
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Post by dread240 »

I'm going to elaborate on my thoughts a bit more.... these are purely from a drag racing perspective and are using the 'true street' rules that pretty much all tracks I attend adhere to for sport compact events.

KA-T - very easy to boost as seen around this site, and fully built can make some very strong power.... You are allowed to run any transmission from the same manufacturer, so once you get up into the power levels the z32 swap fits right in, and keeps you legal. 4 cylinder cars must only weight 2300lbs, are alotted a 67mm turbo (which allows up to a 4088r for manual trans, automatic cars can only run a 64mm turbo but I haven't seen any nissan automatics worth building for it to stay legal in this). Rear end swaps are allowed as long as they're bolt in, and any motor work is permitted. Allows for a q45 diff with the stronger large hub cv's..

SR20.... also legal to swap to. In order to sustain higher numbers needed, you're looking at building that as well too which is more expensive. SR20 trans aren't much stronger then a ka manual, so you're also going to incur the z32 swap expense. Again, you can go to the q45 rear diff, z32 trans, allowed a 67mm turbo and only have to weigh 2300lbs.

RB###.... now into the 6 cylinders, you're allowed bigger turbo setups, a 72mm, or 58mm twins. RB is a nissan motor so it's legal, and the rb25 trans is pretty stout from what I've read. Downside is now your car must weigh in at 3300lbs minimum, so you're at a 1000lb disadvantage versus the ka and sr cars. again, rear swaps and bblahzay blahzay don't change.. but remember when looking at some of these 700hp ka guys, you'd need to be making well over 800+ to accomodate the weight difference..

#jz swap.... not legal in all my local true street setups and automatically bumps you into pro import... you better be dropping some serious ***** green by this point if you even think you're making a field.

LS1... same as any #jz swap, again, serious money needed at this point to even make a field.... the bump spot for this class at this year's shootout was a low 8... with some cars in the high 6's....

**************************

Now again, this is how I personally broke it all down. I want a fun street car by all means, but if I show up at an event and I want to run, I want a competitive setup that isn't going to be blown out of the water... and a fully built ka I personally believe can be a downright monster in a true street class, and that is what I'm putting mine together for.

If I can show up with a 650rwhp (on q16 mind you... ethanol is not allowed in the classes up here, only gasoline) that's tipping the scales at about 2400-2500lbs.... I'm looking at an amazing showing and should easily be able to take the #1 spot, assuming I can keep the car consistent enough and keep it together for an entire weekend. I will be up against some 72mm supras in this class, and that's going to be my biggest competition, however they are not allowed to be running th400's at this point, and the boost logic trans really isn't even that good for any supra around the 10 second range (that's where they normally go th400). The average supra in the class is probably about a 700rwhp setup, 6spd, and I really believe I can put together a ka to contend with that (and if you're bench racing going by the sheets, it should be pretty dominant)

Don't think I can really add anything more to the discussion though, but just keep this in mind if you ever plan on trying to make a decent showing at an import drag event.
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Post by 93s13ka-t »

i dont race alot but most of the time i drag race and i want to learn how to drift maybe even road race i think it would be fun. lol
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Post by azS13 »

If you want to learn how to drift i suggest you start with a little lower power levels and work your way up.
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Post by RunninMeBrokeS13 »

i'd go with the LS9 but we all know i would never have enough money for that. so i'd have to say 2j deffinatly. awesome motor can hold a **** load.
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Post by TanManS14 »

azS13 wrote:If you want to learn how to drift i suggest you start with a little lower power levels and work your way up.
I second that notion. Just get used to beating the **** out of an NA Ka first. Then do the swap. Although, you can always run 7lb's on w/e motor u go with. If going with a v8 though def stay ka for a while and drive before you swap.
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Post by Liger »

Have you looked into a VQ or VH swap?

Fantastic engine and it's all aluminum so you definitely won't be adding any weight. Great sound and lots of support for them.
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Post by TanManS14 »

Vh's/ Vq's are gay when compared to the Ls1/2jz. Vq's cant make **** on stock block in comarison, v pattern, so more complication for turbo setups, finicky rod bearings, and expensive. If its Na then i sorta understand, but to much money to justify. Also, 2j'z can get to 300 Na just like the vq. So there's really no point at all.

Vh dosnt make **** for power (290 wheel w/ longtubes and intake) in comparison to the ls1 (400wheel with longtube and intake, OR with the right cam and maybe heads can get to 500 whp NA), VH"s weird as intake, and you have to buy 4 cams. Idk lol. Both those swaps suck imo.
Last edited by TanManS14 on Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:51 am, edited 5 times in total.
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93s13ka-t
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Post by 93s13ka-t »

agreed vq and vh have nothing on lsx engines
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Post by YashioS14 »

id get a rb26dett over a 2jz. theres a reason why skylines hold records in jgtc....
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Post by s13grady »

2J if you got the money.
Ka is the second best IMO.
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Post by R34SR »

let this thread die now please.....the cock measuring competition is over.
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TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
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Post by joe62890 »

R34SR wrote:let this thread die now please.....the cock measuring competition is over.
Somebody lost... :D
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Post by R34SR »

TinyT? :lol:
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TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
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Post by s14fiend »

^ LOL......very funny.
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Post by TinyT »

R34SR wrote:TinyT? :lol:
HAHAHAH
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Post by TinyT »

nissanfanatic wrote:If I could start over, I would go with an LS1. Though all I really want is a reliable 450whp. One day, I would like to go to events and not have to pop the hood.
jb weld plus LS1 components still equals the popage of your hood :wink:
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Post by R34SR »

TinyT wrote:
R34SR wrote:TinyT? :lol:
HAHAHAH
lol you know im just pullin yer legs
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TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
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Post by TinyT »

R34SR wrote:
TinyT wrote:
R34SR wrote:TinyT? :lol:
HAHAHAH
lol you know im just pullin yer legs
not to worried about it man haha
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Post by Kfred »

I just had the sickest idea!

Ls1 with a rear mount supercharger
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Post by azS13 »

Why is everyone so slap-happy about the 2j??? The 1j is nearly as good, much better for torque (which is so many of us love the ka), alot cheaper, and can still hold a sh*t load of power on stock internals. If you aren't worried about the cost factor, then by all means get a 2j. Even then I would rather spend the extra money on other parts (suspension etc) and have a built 1j instead!
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Post by TryingToTurbo »

azS13 wrote:Why is everyone so slap-happy about the 2j??? The 1j is nearly as good, much better for torque (which is so many of us love the ka), alot cheaper, and can still hold a sh*t load of power on stock internals. If you aren't worried about the cost factor, then by all means get a 2j. Even then I would rather spend the extra money on other parts (suspension etc) and have a built 1j instead!
you have it backwards. The 2j is the torque monster, the 1jz is the rev happy motor. 1j is 2.5L and 2j is 3.0L I beleive. Again 1j aftermarket support just isnt there like it is for the 2j.

If I had a choice it would be 2j with KA in close 2nd.


P.S. 57trim at 16psi on a ka can make more power and torque than a modded ls1 (cam,intake,longtubes,tune) :shock: hooray for 4cylinders
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