Turbo to Downpipe Bolts

Basic tech questions such as future setups, different turbo kits, car diagnosis, etc
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NRubinoS14
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Turbo to Downpipe Bolts

Post by NRubinoS14 »

I have a Megan Downpipe and Garrett T3/T4 turbo and for some reason the bolts (4) continue to back themselves out. I replaced all 4 only 5 days ago, and started to hear an exhaust leak and 3 of the 4 have backed out already and are gone. I used lock washers with them after the first time of them backing out on me, and still, the same issue.

Is this common? What is the issue here? It's getting a little ridiculous. Hopefully, you guys have some input.
Last edited by NRubinoS14 on Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by sx moneypit »

Put some Locktite on them and be done with it.
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Post by 240sxfan6882 »

Try the Loctite as suggested,
is it the turbo to manifold backing off, or the turbo to downpipe?

I use studs on both sides and use locking exhaust-nuts that don't back off like these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-X-STAINLESS-S ... 38&vxp=mtr
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Post by NRubinoS14 »

240sxfan6882 wrote:Try the Loctite as suggested,
is it the turbo to manifold backing off, or the turbo to downpipe?

I use studs on both sides and use locking exhaust-nuts that don't back off like these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-X-STAINLESS-S ... 38&vxp=mtr
I will def go with some loctite, but not sure I can use what you suggested as far as the studs, the turbo itself has threaded holes for the bolts, So, the locking nuts wouldn't be able to be put on both ends, unless I'm misinterpreting something....

EDIT* Turbo to Downpipe, sorry.
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Post by 240sxfan6882 »

NRubinoS14 wrote:
240sxfan6882 wrote:Try the Loctite as suggested,
is it the turbo to manifold backing off, or the turbo to downpipe?

I use studs on both sides and use locking exhaust-nuts that don't back off like these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-X-STAINLESS-S ... 38&vxp=mtr
I will def go with some loctite, but not sure I can use what you suggested as far as the studs, the turbo itself has threaded holes for the bolts, So, the locking nuts wouldn't be able to be put on both ends, unless I'm misinterpreting something....

EDIT* Turbo to Downpipe, sorry.
\

You screw the studs into those holes on the back of the turbo, and after you place the flange they will stick out (if you get the correct length)... that's where you place the nuts.

Like so:
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewI ... duct=30094
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Post by ashy-larry »

How low is your car? Is your exhaust frequently making contact with road obstacles? Is there a flex pipe anywhere in your up/down pipe?

These could be contributing factors
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Post by NRubinoS14 »

ashy-larry wrote:How low is your car? Is your exhaust frequently making contact with road obstacles? Is there a flex pipe anywhere in your up/down pipe?

These could be contributing factors
The car is on Stance GR+Pro Coilovers, but doesn't contantly make contact with the ground or scrape. However, I do believe that one or more of the hangers may be loose causing the bolts to back out quicker. Going to assess the exhaust use some locktite and see how it holds up.
You screw the studs into those holes on the back of the turbo, and after you place the flange they will stick out (if you get the correct length)... that's where you place the nuts.

Like so:
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewI ... duct=30094
Thanks, that's what I figured but didn't know how tight you would be able to get them just hand tightening into the turbo housing...
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Post by mmmS13 »

Don't forget sometimes when the nuts/bolts get really hot they I suppose expand and back out. When I installed my manifold the first time I'd let the car idle for awhile to get nice and hot then let it cool down and tighten the nuts a little more each time.
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Post by LPime001 »

If locktite doesn't work, you can always try Nord-Lock washers.
I bought mine from McMaster-Carr.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=m3cjg8

Their a bit expensive, but they work. When I ordered mine, they had smaller package sizes, so it ended up being a bit cheaper. I have the washers at my turbo to manifold connection, and at my wastegate to manifold connection. The nuts are still on there tight, and have not backed out at all.

I did not use any on my downpipe to turbo connection, and those bolts keep coming loose. I'll eventually order more of these washers to solve that issue.
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Post by NRubinoS14 »

I was getting a lot of movement from my exhaust, so I made two metal brackets to replace on the tranny and one of the back hangers to prevent any movement in the exhaust. Replaced the bolts, going to check frequently. Thanks.
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Post by jholman05 »

As mentioned before you should have a flex pipe in your exhaust, preferably the down pipe. You can get them online for $35 shipped and have your local exhaust shop weld one in for you. This shouldn't happen just due to engine vibration, I'm with the guy up there that said it might be from contributing factors. It might have been from all the movement like you said in the exhaust but if you had a flex pipe it would limit the movement your turbo to downpipe connection would see.

Also those were some good suggestions up there, there is also a product called stage 8 locking bolts/nuts. You would just need to know the size bolts. It's what I'll be using on my manifold to turbo connection.



http://www.stage8.com/
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Post by p00t »

Those cheap downpipes and manifolds from China use stainless flanges and they just expand a lot with heat.

Everyone says to use locktite... even high temp is only good *intermittently* to 400°F. You think your manifold and turbo don't go above that? Loctite is PLASTIC. Take those bolts off after a week and that Loctite has turned to ash.

You need studs and locking nuts, the kind that has a deformed thread and bites into the stud. Look at the hardware connecting your exhaust manifold to the head for guidance. Lockwashers do not help.
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Post by sdaigle240 »

i used mild steel flanges with nord locks and still had issues. i sucked it up and went v band. all fixed now.
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Post by Irresistible »

240sxfan6882 wrote:Try the Loctite as suggested,
is it the turbo to manifold backing off, or the turbo to downpipe?

I use studs on both sides and use locking exhaust-nuts that don't back off like these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-X-STAINLESS-S ... 38&vxp=mtr
Are copper nuts even any good? I feel like they'd be super easy to strip because of how soft copper is.
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Post by Irresistible »

Another thing I could think of, is using two nuts for the outer nut to act as a locking nut on top of the one closer to the flange. Same concept as collars on coilovers.
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Post by tom550 »

I didn't read through this thread or know if this will work for you.

But I'll put this here.
http://trackspeedengineering.com/produc ... c9ob8b3673
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Post by emo_tactical9 »

I have been using the locking plate and the deformed copper nuts. Holding fine so far.
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Post by godrifttoday »

You could also use wire!!! Bolts that have a little small hole in them and u run a wire through them to prevent them from coming loose!! I sell fastners!
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Post by erich »

I use Stage 8 fasteners.http://www.stage8.com/
I have also used stove cement which is like 2000* gasket maker. It hardens like stone and is a real pain in the ass to get off.
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Post by schmauster920 »

Convert to vband, cheaper than the fasteners lol
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Post by Shimiboi »

I'm using the same set-up as emo_tactical9. You can check here:

www.frsport.com/Accessories_c_251.html
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Post by schmauster920 »

Nord locks ftw


Airman or someone on here said they rock, and they do
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Post by sdaigle240 »

the nords no workey for me. tried em 3 times :evil: ive probably tightened my vband clamp once in the past year or two.
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