Turbo to Downpipe Bolts
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Turbo to Downpipe Bolts
I have a Megan Downpipe and Garrett T3/T4 turbo and for some reason the bolts (4) continue to back themselves out. I replaced all 4 only 5 days ago, and started to hear an exhaust leak and 3 of the 4 have backed out already and are gone. I used lock washers with them after the first time of them backing out on me, and still, the same issue.
Is this common? What is the issue here? It's getting a little ridiculous. Hopefully, you guys have some input.
Is this common? What is the issue here? It's getting a little ridiculous. Hopefully, you guys have some input.
Last edited by NRubinoS14 on Fri Mar 29, 2013 9:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Try the Loctite as suggested,
is it the turbo to manifold backing off, or the turbo to downpipe?
I use studs on both sides and use locking exhaust-nuts that don't back off like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-X-STAINLESS-S ... 38&vxp=mtr
is it the turbo to manifold backing off, or the turbo to downpipe?
I use studs on both sides and use locking exhaust-nuts that don't back off like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-X-STAINLESS-S ... 38&vxp=mtr
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I will def go with some loctite, but not sure I can use what you suggested as far as the studs, the turbo itself has threaded holes for the bolts, So, the locking nuts wouldn't be able to be put on both ends, unless I'm misinterpreting something....240sxfan6882 wrote:Try the Loctite as suggested,
is it the turbo to manifold backing off, or the turbo to downpipe?
I use studs on both sides and use locking exhaust-nuts that don't back off like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-X-STAINLESS-S ... 38&vxp=mtr
EDIT* Turbo to Downpipe, sorry.
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\NRubinoS14 wrote:I will def go with some loctite, but not sure I can use what you suggested as far as the studs, the turbo itself has threaded holes for the bolts, So, the locking nuts wouldn't be able to be put on both ends, unless I'm misinterpreting something....240sxfan6882 wrote:Try the Loctite as suggested,
is it the turbo to manifold backing off, or the turbo to downpipe?
I use studs on both sides and use locking exhaust-nuts that don't back off like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-X-STAINLESS-S ... 38&vxp=mtr
EDIT* Turbo to Downpipe, sorry.
You screw the studs into those holes on the back of the turbo, and after you place the flange they will stick out (if you get the correct length)... that's where you place the nuts.
Like so:
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewI ... duct=30094
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The car is on Stance GR+Pro Coilovers, but doesn't contantly make contact with the ground or scrape. However, I do believe that one or more of the hangers may be loose causing the bolts to back out quicker. Going to assess the exhaust use some locktite and see how it holds up.ashy-larry wrote:How low is your car? Is your exhaust frequently making contact with road obstacles? Is there a flex pipe anywhere in your up/down pipe?
These could be contributing factors
Thanks, that's what I figured but didn't know how tight you would be able to get them just hand tightening into the turbo housing...You screw the studs into those holes on the back of the turbo, and after you place the flange they will stick out (if you get the correct length)... that's where you place the nuts.
Like so:
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewI ... duct=30094
Don't forget sometimes when the nuts/bolts get really hot they I suppose expand and back out. When I installed my manifold the first time I'd let the car idle for awhile to get nice and hot then let it cool down and tighten the nuts a little more each time.
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50 trim 16psi
810cc DW's
Z32 MAF
Enthalpy Tuned
*Sold*
Evo X Cornfed
http://www.youtube.com/LGmmkay
^ Youtube Channel ^
viewtopic.php?p=496648#496648
^ Build Thread ^
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^ Considering E-Mance? Read this ^
If locktite doesn't work, you can always try Nord-Lock washers.
I bought mine from McMaster-Carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=m3cjg8
Their a bit expensive, but they work. When I ordered mine, they had smaller package sizes, so it ended up being a bit cheaper. I have the washers at my turbo to manifold connection, and at my wastegate to manifold connection. The nuts are still on there tight, and have not backed out at all.
I did not use any on my downpipe to turbo connection, and those bolts keep coming loose. I'll eventually order more of these washers to solve that issue.
I bought mine from McMaster-Carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=m3cjg8
Their a bit expensive, but they work. When I ordered mine, they had smaller package sizes, so it ended up being a bit cheaper. I have the washers at my turbo to manifold connection, and at my wastegate to manifold connection. The nuts are still on there tight, and have not backed out at all.
I did not use any on my downpipe to turbo connection, and those bolts keep coming loose. I'll eventually order more of these washers to solve that issue.
Turbonetics 50 Trim T3/T4 .63ar
JGS Log Mani & Downpipe
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JGS Log Mani & Downpipe
Turbonetics Wastegate
Greddy Type RS Blow Off
PLX Wideband
Prosport Boost and Oil Gauge
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As mentioned before you should have a flex pipe in your exhaust, preferably the down pipe. You can get them online for $35 shipped and have your local exhaust shop weld one in for you. This shouldn't happen just due to engine vibration, I'm with the guy up there that said it might be from contributing factors. It might have been from all the movement like you said in the exhaust but if you had a flex pipe it would limit the movement your turbo to downpipe connection would see.
Also those were some good suggestions up there, there is also a product called stage 8 locking bolts/nuts. You would just need to know the size bolts. It's what I'll be using on my manifold to turbo connection.
http://www.stage8.com/
Also those were some good suggestions up there, there is also a product called stage 8 locking bolts/nuts. You would just need to know the size bolts. It's what I'll be using on my manifold to turbo connection.
http://www.stage8.com/
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Those cheap downpipes and manifolds from China use stainless flanges and they just expand a lot with heat.
Everyone says to use locktite... even high temp is only good *intermittently* to 400°F. You think your manifold and turbo don't go above that? Loctite is PLASTIC. Take those bolts off after a week and that Loctite has turned to ash.
You need studs and locking nuts, the kind that has a deformed thread and bites into the stud. Look at the hardware connecting your exhaust manifold to the head for guidance. Lockwashers do not help.
Everyone says to use locktite... even high temp is only good *intermittently* to 400°F. You think your manifold and turbo don't go above that? Loctite is PLASTIC. Take those bolts off after a week and that Loctite has turned to ash.
You need studs and locking nuts, the kind that has a deformed thread and bites into the stud. Look at the hardware connecting your exhaust manifold to the head for guidance. Lockwashers do not help.
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i used mild steel flanges with nord locks and still had issues. i sucked it up and went v band. all fixed now.
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Are copper nuts even any good? I feel like they'd be super easy to strip because of how soft copper is.240sxfan6882 wrote:Try the Loctite as suggested,
is it the turbo to manifold backing off, or the turbo to downpipe?
I use studs on both sides and use locking exhaust-nuts that don't back off like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-X-STAINLESS-S ... 38&vxp=mtr
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I didn't read through this thread or know if this will work for you.
But I'll put this here.
http://trackspeedengineering.com/produc ... c9ob8b3673
But I'll put this here.
http://trackspeedengineering.com/produc ... c9ob8b3673
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I have been using the locking plate and the deformed copper nuts. Holding fine so far.
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I use Stage 8 fasteners.http://www.stage8.com/
I have also used stove cement which is like 2000* gasket maker. It hardens like stone and is a real pain in the ass to get off.
I have also used stove cement which is like 2000* gasket maker. It hardens like stone and is a real pain in the ass to get off.
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I'm using the same set-up as emo_tactical9. You can check here:
www.frsport.com/Accessories_c_251.html
www.frsport.com/Accessories_c_251.html
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the nords no workey for me. tried em 3 times ive probably tightened my vband clamp once in the past year or two.
airman wrote:I'm all about spreadsheets. Bitches love spreadsheets.
schmauster920 wrote:I shall cast my own pistons in the sands of time, then forge them in the depths of hell.. as funds allow
hy35 18psi Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=38784
RIP MJL best friend of 20 years and the man who showed me 240s