Sticky: DOHC Turbo For Dummies
This is another really great write-up... should have been locked though. All the "I'm too lazy to use a calculator and add up the cost of blah blah blah" questions got it a little cluttered up. Not to mention the run-on questions from hell... seriously people. Pick your parts, add up the cost with a calculator. Then add up the cost of the SR swap, compare, and question answered. Don't expect everyone else to do your homework. How do you think these people learned? It wasn't handed to them nearly as nice as this writeup was handed to us I'm guessing so take what you're given here, and consider it a gift. This is good stuff.
On FA as slow240.
95 Base 5MT; Injen intake, Motoria Single tip exhaust w/ 2nd Cat delete. S14 VLSD. Clutch Masters Alum. Flywheel, KYB GR-2s Specialty Z subframe collars. Nismo Mounts.
KA-T project: COMPLETE! Parts getting fabbed up to work together 06/07/08. Install pending arrival of Fuel Pump and BOV. Should have boost by July!
5/2011 - Lol, totally didn't! I do have two kids though.
SEX = DEAD DREAMS
95 Base 5MT; Injen intake, Motoria Single tip exhaust w/ 2nd Cat delete. S14 VLSD. Clutch Masters Alum. Flywheel, KYB GR-2s Specialty Z subframe collars. Nismo Mounts.
KA-T project: COMPLETE! Parts getting fabbed up to work together 06/07/08. Install pending arrival of Fuel Pump and BOV. Should have boost by July!
5/2011 - Lol, totally didn't! I do have two kids though.
SEX = DEAD DREAMS
1995 SE Altima
Can anyone suggest where i should start as far as lower cost to higher cost parts and manufactuers go for a 1995 Altima Se FWD ofc. Ive seen alot of stuff for 240 i use to own one and i know the engine bay isn't identical i have found a new manifold should i go intercooler air intake first or manifold turbo and tubbing i want to achive about 10psi on the turbo sorry i know this is my first post but i have been spending the last 2 months looking for parts on my altima for the turbo system already got 2 piston calipers and slotted rotors for stopping power gotta stop if you go fast right ;-)
just curious for the above average build it was stated that for the average build, when it came to block internals, you could walk the line. Im only shooting for 300-350hp. Can I do that safley with a good tune and have a stock block and maybe weekend track use and also use it as my daily driver. Also quick question, has anyone had any luck with buying turbos off ebay? Ive always heard that you get what you pay for... and I was just wondering should I be skeptical about the cheap prices? i havent used ebay yet.
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- SuperMod
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So after reading for awhile and doing a little research, I decided to go with a mild set up. I have a buddy who is giving me a small t3 turbo. It doesnt have the specs on the outside but its an M11 turbo. My question would be, if its a smaller turbo, would it be ok to use the set up for the t28 turbo or should I go with the suggested items from the T3 items?
- emo_tactical9
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This thread is old. It needs to be updated. And the pictures don't work.
Just call me Adam.
95 240: DIYPNP and T28.
08 Honda Fit
84 200sx: Sold after almost 10 years.
My file hosting:Calum,MegaSquirt,FSM
95 240: DIYPNP and T28.
08 Honda Fit
84 200sx: Sold after almost 10 years.
My file hosting:Calum,MegaSquirt,FSM
- Chozen
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If it hasn't been said already, there needs to be discussion of how the KA PCV system has needs to be redone. I am horrible at drawing diagrams with MS Paint, there are quite a few on here. viewtopic.php?t=27437&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Basically what needs to happen bare minimum is this:
1. Replace your PCV valve with a 3/8" x 3/8" fitting, one end being threaded, the other being a hose barb.
2. If you have your intake manifold off, thats great, that makes all of this so much easier. If you dont in order to do all of this you are going to need to remove your alternator. If you do, remove the four short hoses coming off of the intake manifold with the rail they feed into. That rail has a short tube in the middle, where a hose connects to that goes to the PCV valve. Weld/JB Weld/solder or otherwise block off the places on the IM that the hoses attached to. If the IM is on the motor you can cap off the tube on the rail that would have had the hose running to the PCV valve attached to it The little tube has a tiny bead rolled end to prevent slippage. This is awesome. Make sure you use a good cap and hose clamp, make sure it is tight. I use the non-rubber (I dont know what they are) line caps that come on the hose-connecting ends of metal ATF lines on new automatic transmissions when they get sent to dealerships.
3. Run a 3/8" hose from the fitting that replaced your PCV valve in your oil separator to a catch can mounted at least as high as the fitting. Make sure you baffle your catch can. I use several cut pieces of home A/C filter.
4. Run another hose from the other barb fitting on the catch can to the pre-turbo intake pipe after the MAF.
5. Install a breather filter on your valve cover, replace or clean when it gets dirty. This is actually more important than it seems. This is where fresh air is coming in to help evacuate the PCV system. I just replace mine. I get white colored ones to see when it gets dirty easier. Or, you can find some way to use a hose instead and re-integrate it back into the system like the factory did. Just don't connect the hose from the valve cover to an intake pipe that sees boost.
It works. The turbo creates just enough vacuum to pull the crankcase vapors out of the bottom end, through the catch can where it accumulates water vapor and otherwise sludge, and put the filtered air back into the metered air system into the intake. you will need to empty your catch can every so often and replace the baffling filters at that time also. You would not believe the amount of chocolate yoo-hoo
colored sludge that builds up on the baffles. There will also be water in there from accumulated water in the oily vapors separating from the oil.
1. Replace your PCV valve with a 3/8" x 3/8" fitting, one end being threaded, the other being a hose barb.
2. If you have your intake manifold off, thats great, that makes all of this so much easier. If you dont in order to do all of this you are going to need to remove your alternator. If you do, remove the four short hoses coming off of the intake manifold with the rail they feed into. That rail has a short tube in the middle, where a hose connects to that goes to the PCV valve. Weld/JB Weld/solder or otherwise block off the places on the IM that the hoses attached to. If the IM is on the motor you can cap off the tube on the rail that would have had the hose running to the PCV valve attached to it The little tube has a tiny bead rolled end to prevent slippage. This is awesome. Make sure you use a good cap and hose clamp, make sure it is tight. I use the non-rubber (I dont know what they are) line caps that come on the hose-connecting ends of metal ATF lines on new automatic transmissions when they get sent to dealerships.
3. Run a 3/8" hose from the fitting that replaced your PCV valve in your oil separator to a catch can mounted at least as high as the fitting. Make sure you baffle your catch can. I use several cut pieces of home A/C filter.
4. Run another hose from the other barb fitting on the catch can to the pre-turbo intake pipe after the MAF.
5. Install a breather filter on your valve cover, replace or clean when it gets dirty. This is actually more important than it seems. This is where fresh air is coming in to help evacuate the PCV system. I just replace mine. I get white colored ones to see when it gets dirty easier. Or, you can find some way to use a hose instead and re-integrate it back into the system like the factory did. Just don't connect the hose from the valve cover to an intake pipe that sees boost.
It works. The turbo creates just enough vacuum to pull the crankcase vapors out of the bottom end, through the catch can where it accumulates water vapor and otherwise sludge, and put the filtered air back into the metered air system into the intake. you will need to empty your catch can every so often and replace the baffling filters at that time also. You would not believe the amount of chocolate yoo-hoo
colored sludge that builds up on the baffles. There will also be water in there from accumulated water in the oily vapors separating from the oil.
DIY or die.
im about to get my first dohc ka-t. i wanna have a mild build, im 16. i wanna round 200-250 hp. a little quicker than a stock sr. would a t25 at 10 lbs be good for a reliable daily driver? or would i blow anyhting, i want it to be my DD and i know someone whos got a dohc with sr i think 3** enjectors, and t3/t04e and runds 10 lbs daily for 2 years on a welded diff, dyno'ed at 258 hp and 205 ft lbs of torwue i think, what turbo would you recomend? its a huge budget build, im tight on money, PM me if you can someone with recomendations.
- Chozen
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
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If youre on a budget, don't do anything until you have some money to spend. Especially if it is your only car. At 16 you don't need to putting money into something like that just to learn a hard lesson. Just keep your car stock and make sure it runs good, and take care of it. Save your money in the meantime. Then when you have the money, either buy something nicer or turbocharge your car the right way the first time.
DIY or die.
- IlovesmeaS15
- NooB
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Turbo Manifold
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.
Fuel Control
550cc Injectors
SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.
Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.
Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.
Block Internals
This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.
Above Average: 350 rwhp to 425 rwhp
Ok, so this is my goal. But I was wondering if a Turbonetics GT-K 350 would work.
Or for that matter, any turbonetics product.
Help is appriciated
hey guys, its been awhile since i last posted and realized i had a lot to learn. But I recently decided to get a mild build with maybe a sr t25 or t28. Just mainly a setup to familiarize myself with boost without straining the engine before fully building it. I just have a few questions...any help would be nice. I didn't think a new thread was needed for this...
so far i have gotten(getting in future) the following:
Garrett T25 or T28
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Apexi S-AFC II
550cc Fuel injectors (don't know which kind yet, ive heard bad things about vemon, was think sard injectors.
3'' ebay piping...manifold (might not trust an ebay manifold, heard there bad on the master cylinder), elbow, downpipe and catback, maybe a test pipe to.
magnaflow exhaust that i will weld on catback
Not really sure on an intercooler yet (FMIC forsure though), was thinking big intercooler with 3'' and piping of 2.5''(depending on how much room in left...trying to keep battery in engine bay for now)
N62 MAF or z32 MAF...doesn't really matter yet i guess, long as the stock maf is out
Boost controler and turbo timer
BOV don't know what kind yet really
possibly Bee*R ignition cut (heard mixed things about it...any input?)
My car only has 123xxx KMs (or about 68 xxx miles...not bad for $1000 ) on it and runs pretty strong, well taken care of...i was wondering i should also get a tune up on it.
Would be nice to get input soon as my car is being stored in my garage and I plan on buying parts while its not being driven.
so far i have gotten(getting in future) the following:
Garrett T25 or T28
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Apexi S-AFC II
550cc Fuel injectors (don't know which kind yet, ive heard bad things about vemon, was think sard injectors.
3'' ebay piping...manifold (might not trust an ebay manifold, heard there bad on the master cylinder), elbow, downpipe and catback, maybe a test pipe to.
magnaflow exhaust that i will weld on catback
Not really sure on an intercooler yet (FMIC forsure though), was thinking big intercooler with 3'' and piping of 2.5''(depending on how much room in left...trying to keep battery in engine bay for now)
N62 MAF or z32 MAF...doesn't really matter yet i guess, long as the stock maf is out
Boost controler and turbo timer
BOV don't know what kind yet really
possibly Bee*R ignition cut (heard mixed things about it...any input?)
My car only has 123xxx KMs (or about 68 xxx miles...not bad for $1000 ) on it and runs pretty strong, well taken care of...i was wondering i should also get a tune up on it.
Would be nice to get input soon as my car is being stored in my garage and I plan on buying parts while its not being driven.
- Kfred
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It looks like your off to a good start, but here are some suggestions:
Don't settle for a t25, get a t28
Say no to safc, and get a pretuned ecu (efi specialists is only $300)
Bottom mount ebay manifold is ok
Do a search on ebay intercooler kits, some are decent and offer good fitment
Don't worry about a turbo timer for now nor a bee-R ignition cut
If money is tight, 1g dsm bovs work awesome and are super cheap
Manual boost controller, electronic is overated
Use the money saved from the bee-R and turbo timer, and freshen up your ignition system.
Bkr7e plugs
New wires
New cap
New rotor[/b]
Don't settle for a t25, get a t28
Say no to safc, and get a pretuned ecu (efi specialists is only $300)
Bottom mount ebay manifold is ok
Do a search on ebay intercooler kits, some are decent and offer good fitment
Don't worry about a turbo timer for now nor a bee-R ignition cut
If money is tight, 1g dsm bovs work awesome and are super cheap
Manual boost controller, electronic is overated
Use the money saved from the bee-R and turbo timer, and freshen up your ignition system.
Bkr7e plugs
New wires
New cap
New rotor[/b]
RIP Nate(480sx)...
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- Dreams of owning a 240!
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t25
Ok so building a ka-t do I have to use safc or can I get a tune ecu and not use the safc
T25
450cc
Greddy intercooler
Hks bov
255 fuel pump
Tune ecu
Do I need anything else im going for a 7 to 10 psi for DD
T25
450cc
Greddy intercooler
Hks bov
255 fuel pump
Tune ecu
Do I need anything else im going for a 7 to 10 psi for DD
- Kfred
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Re: t25
Go with a good trusted ecu tuning company and you shouldn't need an safc to correct the tune. It's nice to have, but not a necessity.limited240 wrote:Ok so building a ka-t do I have to use safc or can I get a tune ecu and not use the safc
T25
450cc
Greddy intercooler
Hks bov
255 fuel pump
Tune ecu
Do I need anything else im going for a 7 to 10 psi for DD
You forgot intercooler piping, downpipe, turbo manifold, clutch, turbo oil line kit, and some more i'm sure.
My Tip to you: Take your time and do some research before you buy anything, it will save you money in the longrun.
RIP Nate(480sx)...
- Walperstyle
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