How to run LS1 Coils
- franman
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what are every ones feelings/opinions/experiences with the non GM/AC Delco Coils? (both LS1 and LS2) AKA OEM replacement from other manufactures. They are dirt cheap from places like Auto Zone and all over Ebay. I saw a few people in this thread that may be using something besides genuine GM stuff, no real pros or cons that i read though.
The D585 coil, GM part # 10457730 LS2/truck coils from autozone still working good? These are still wired exactly the same as the LS1's? aka negitive trigger via AEM coil out put works like a charm (no need to open the AEM and change the jumpers?)
Looking forward to doing this as soon as i get back to my car and want to make sure i have all the parts sitting there waiting for me to install
The D585 coil, GM part # 10457730 LS2/truck coils from autozone still working good? These are still wired exactly the same as the LS1's? aka negitive trigger via AEM coil out put works like a charm (no need to open the AEM and change the jumpers?)
Looking forward to doing this as soon as i get back to my car and want to make sure i have all the parts sitting there waiting for me to install
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I just got the Ls2 coils with the Haltech E6X, would you be able to say how you wired it and the dwell times you used. I saw what you had posted I was wondering if you changed them at all or just left them has the wizard set it. I already have the harness so I am just wiring harness to Haltech and am running wasted spark so I am just using 2 wires. I think it's digout 1 and 2, but am not sure.AceInHole wrote:I finally ditched my LS2/LS7 coils (GM# 12573190). After going through all my settings and wiring, I wanted to start with new coils. I bought some AC Delco D585 (also under Wells C1251 or GM# 10457730) GMC Yukon LS2/Truck Coils, made a new bracket, and plugged them in. These are the round coils with the aluminum heatsink on the back/bottom.
The result was a night and day difference, and my car is boosting to 17psi without hesitation. I've also upped my plug gap to something normal (0.029) from my bandaided 0.018 gap and it's still going strong.
Conclusion: Either my coils were shot or just buy the truck coils to begin with. Mine were $45 each from Autozone and I was able to pick them up the day after ordering them in-store.
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i wanted to convert to ls1 coils and i have an aem ems,my local tuner told me i couldn't run them without an aem twin fire,and he told me to call aem myself if i didn't believe him...so i did turn out he was right i didn't go into detail with the guy on the phone he just told me that i could ruin my ems if i run them without the twin fire box....?
i know that he could of just told me that because he wanted me to buy the twin fire so he can make money off me,but im not an expert in that category,so i don't know......could someone verify this with?????
thanks
i know that he could of just told me that because he wanted me to buy the twin fire so he can make money off me,but im not an expert in that category,so i don't know......could someone verify this with?????
thanks
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How do i test the LS1 coils to make sure they're good? Can't get spark for some reason and everything is wired correctly. 12v to ignition on, ground to the head, the rest go to the ecu which i pinned out.It cranks, i have fuel just no spark.
What are all the factors to prevent spark?
Is this the aem 24t disk?
Here's my setup
What are all the factors to prevent spark?
Is this the aem 24t disk?
Here's my setup
- joshpntbl07
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Well i finished my ls1 coil install. The car starts and runs better overall. For some reason im getting blow out at around 12psi of boost though. New plugs and wires. Ive tried both the ls1 and ls2 coil dwell settings. Bumped the dwell vs rpm up to around 130. My plug gap was around .035. I just regapped them to .032 but havent took the car out yet. Maybe that will help, but I was sure I could run a bigger gap than that. Here is a pic. yeah, i know #2 is a little short, lol.
- joshpntbl07
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well, today I tried the car at .032 gap and .028. Still getting blowing out bad at .032 gap and 12psi. I then gapped them down to .028. It runs much better at .028 but I can still feel very slight blow out sometimes. Before I did the coil install I was running a .028 gap, with the stock internal coil and have boosted 14psi with no blow out at all. I am using the stock ls1 dwell settings. I guess ill try the ls2 settings next. Anyone have any ideas on why Im getting blowout?
- Kamilitaryman
- Encyclopedia-Nissan
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I decided to go AEM for my ECU on my project. I really want to get rid of the stock ignition setup. I've read through this whole thread, but just to sum it up:
I'll need everything that was mentioned in Post #1 + the AEM 24+1 trigger disk correct?
I will be buying the AEM series 2 ECU this week and the site states that it comes with the disk
I'll need everything that was mentioned in Post #1 + the AEM 24+1 trigger disk correct?
I will be buying the AEM series 2 ECU this week and the site states that it comes with the disk
PM me if you're interested in getting something powder coated!
Consider the new megasquirt standalone. AEM has discontinued production of the AEM for KAs and I'd be worried about the product support in a year or two, even now.
From what I can tell MS does just about everything and maybe more than AEM and has awesome support - even right here on our forums in the DIYAutotune section.
From what I can tell MS does just about everything and maybe more than AEM and has awesome support - even right here on our forums in the DIYAutotune section.
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
- Kamilitaryman
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I'm not too concerned about product support. If you think about it, any forum with users running AEM will be my product support. It's not going to just vanish. With time, people will find ways to modify it even more. In the end, it will come down to hardware, not the softwareairman wrote:Consider the new megasquirt standalone. AEM has discontinued production of the AEM for KAs and I'd be worried about the product support in a year or two, even now.
From what I can tell MS does just about everything and maybe more than AEM and has awesome support - even right here on our forums in the DIYAutotune section.
PM me if you're interested in getting something powder coated!
LSx coil boots. I plan on using my current wires and modding them to run to LS2 coils.
Cheapest price I found them online. Anyone have any junkyard secrets?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850446/
Cheapest price I found them online. Anyone have any junkyard secrets?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850446/
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
Mine are working fine so far. Check your dwell settings. Also, you can check the resistance.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
- Walperstyle
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AEMpower forums has some smart people, that are lazy.Kamilitaryman wrote:I'm not too concerned about product support. If you think about it, any forum with users running AEM will be my product support. It's not going to just vanish. With time, people will find ways to modify it even more. In the end, it will come down to hardware, not the softwareairman wrote:Consider the new megasquirt standalone. AEM has discontinued production of the AEM for KAs and I'd be worried about the product support in a year or two, even now.
From what I can tell MS does just about everything and maybe more than AEM and has awesome support - even right here on our forums in the DIYAutotune section.
- Walperstyle
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Interesting way To mount (thinking of a similar idea myself)
(scroll down, cant link to image for some reason)
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthrea ... 124&page=3
(scroll down, cant link to image for some reason)
http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthrea ... 124&page=3
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
Has some used this setup on an Aem Ems V2 30-6611? ive been reading and their is step by step instruction to wire it up on an s13 and s14 ob1 ems but not for the obd2 ems. my main concern is wiring for the signal to the coils on the obd2 240sx wire harness.
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
awsome!!!
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
will the dwell setting be simular if we were to use nissan maxima coils instead of the lsx coils?
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Re: How to run LS1 Coils
the dwell will be different
Last edited by RosadoRacing on Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
I've mounted my coils on the firewall right over the old A/C plumbing. Does anyone know of a universal wiring kit for LS coils that is long enough? Apprx 7-8 ft of total plug wire.
Also, is it possible to reuse the factory plug boots? How would I go about getting the current plug wire out.
Also, is it possible to reuse the factory plug boots? How would I go about getting the current plug wire out.
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
Hi im going to be running a 30-1611 series 1 AEM Standalone
Its for a obd2 95-98 240sx and some other cars
Does the year matter for coils? Someone to run older ls coils
Is their a Wiring diagram?
Ill think of other questions as i go along
Its for a obd2 95-98 240sx and some other cars
Does the year matter for coils? Someone to run older ls coils
Is their a Wiring diagram?
Ill think of other questions as i go along
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
Look for LS coils that have a heatsink on them. They came out of the trucks/SUVs and not the smaller cars.
D585 is the AC Delco part number, but you'll see what I'm talking about. All will do fine, but supposedly these have 2-3 times more output current. (Maybe 40mA compared to 110mA or something?).
I found a brand name of coils on eBay called Herko. They ship out of Texas. I ordered a fifth one as a backup but they all seem to be working. We shall see in a while
D585 is the AC Delco part number, but you'll see what I'm talking about. All will do fine, but supposedly these have 2-3 times more output current. (Maybe 40mA compared to 110mA or something?).
I found a brand name of coils on eBay called Herko. They ship out of Texas. I ordered a fifth one as a backup but they all seem to be working. We shall see in a while
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
Sorry to bump a super old thread, but i'm doing LS1 coils 12573190 on my s13 KA with aem V2 and confused on some settings.
If anybody could email me their map so I could look at some stuff (dwell, phasing etc.) that would be awesome.
If anybody could email me their map so I could look at some stuff (dwell, phasing etc.) that would be awesome.
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
I was using the settings that were on the first page in this thread. Here are my current settings, car still won't start.
What am I missing?
What am I missing?
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
Can anybody who recently did this conversion post where they procured their items and the current costs associated with it? My car has been sitting for the last 5 yrs due to deployments and moves. Any updated information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
Depends on a few factors. If you are already running a standalone (megasquirt or AEM) then it's "only" the cost of coils, ignition wires, and wiring. I recommend just purchasing a full used set from a V8 that comes with the harness connectors and then you have spares (or sell the other 4). Cost for those is ~$100-125 on ebay. Then plug wires.... varies... my Magnecor set was about $170 and goes from LS coil to KA plugs. If you mount the coils on the valve cover you can use stock LS type wires ~$50-120. Also add a few bucks for wires and relays you may want to add.
All LS coil conversions have custom locations and brackets for the coils. Some people mount them to the firewall, top, or front of the engine. Might cost up to $50 depending on how you are designing the bracket.
If you don't have a standalone you can convert to an SR ecu (you might get a nismotronic or similar at the same time so there goes $500-600). I made my own electronics and kept the KA ecu... but not everyone wants to spend a portion of their free time over the course of a year to design electronics to do the job ... okay no one does that
Set aside lots of time to do the wiring!
All LS coil conversions have custom locations and brackets for the coils. Some people mount them to the firewall, top, or front of the engine. Might cost up to $50 depending on how you are designing the bracket.
If you don't have a standalone you can convert to an SR ecu (you might get a nismotronic or similar at the same time so there goes $500-600). I made my own electronics and kept the KA ecu... but not everyone wants to spend a portion of their free time over the course of a year to design electronics to do the job ... okay no one does that
Set aside lots of time to do the wiring!
Current Experiment: Project Twin-Charge 2022
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
@p00t- I appreciate the break down I have a AEM Series 1 stand alone and I just need to find out a solution to what I believe is an ignition issue. I have done all the standard stuff- plugs/wires/dizzy/cap/rotor and no change checked boost leaks. All check out so I am chasing problems... again thank you for the reply and help!
Re: How to run LS1 Coils
You have the right CAS disk installed?
Might want to start a different thread about the issue you are having.
Either way you'll like the LS coils if you make the jump but get the issue straightened out first.
Might want to start a different thread about the issue you are having.
Either way you'll like the LS coils if you make the jump but get the issue straightened out first.
Current Experiment: Project Twin-Charge 2022
- R34SR
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Re: How to run LS1 Coils
I had a similar issue with the coils seeming kinda weak and not much of an improvement over the stock system. Then I decided to wire the power source for the coils directly to the battery in conjunction with a fused relay system. I ended up being able to run 18 psi on a .40 gap with a t28.
These cars are old, sometimes our wiring isn't up to the task or never was meant to provide that kind of power for Maxima/d585 coils. Try it my way..can't hurt.
These cars are old, sometimes our wiring isn't up to the task or never was meant to provide that kind of power for Maxima/d585 coils. Try it my way..can't hurt.
MEGASQUIRT 2 PNP
AEM IGN1A COILS
EAGLE-ARP-SUPERTECH 9:1 KA24DE
BW S257 SX-E .78AR
ID1050x Injectors
Full Race twin scroll manifold
ISIS FMIC
Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
AEM IGN1A COILS
EAGLE-ARP-SUPERTECH 9:1 KA24DE
BW S257 SX-E .78AR
ID1050x Injectors
Full Race twin scroll manifold
ISIS FMIC
Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG