NEW MEMBERS: READ THIS FIRST

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shift_down
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NEW MEMBERS: READ THIS FIRST

Post by shift_down »

This a thread designed for the new members that have many questions, but don't know where to start.
People are ALWAYS encouraged to SEARCH before creating a new thread, but let's be realistic, that doesn't always happen. So I have taken the liberty of organizing this thread with the most common questions being answered.
New members are HIGHLY encouraged to search the forum before making new threads. It is 99% likely that your questions are already answered on this forum.

Index:
1A - Turbo Terms
1B - How to turbo your KA
1C - How Much Horsepower Can I Make?
2 - Building a Motor
3 - Emissions Removal
4 - FAQ
5 - ECU Codes
6 - Diagnosis
7 - Misc


1A: Turbo Terms
Turbo:
A forced induction device used to allow more power to be produced by an engine by forcing more air into the engine, which the ECU accommodates for by forcing more fuel into the engine.
Turbo Manifold:
A special exhaust manifold manufactured to allow the introduction of a turbo.
Wastegate:
A valve used to allow only a certain amount of exhaust gasses to be fed into the turbocharger. Amount of exhaust being fed can be controlled by a spring and/or boost controller.
Blow Off Valve:
A valve used to allow pressurized air to escape once the throttle plate closes, protecting the turbo from backflow of pressurized air.
Intercooler:
A device used to cool the temperature of air going into the motor that has been generated by the turbocharger,
Downpipe:
An exhaust pipe that is bolted on to the exhaust portion of the turbo, leading the way to the rest of the exhaust system.
Turbo Timer:
An electrical device used to allow the car to continue running, while the key has already been removed from the vehicle. This allows the oil to slowly cool down, making for a more reliable turbocharger.
Wideband:
A device used to measure Air-to-Fuel-Ration of your exhaust gasses.
Boost Gauge:
A device allowing you to see how much psi of boost your car is running at a given time.
Oil Pressure Gauge:
A device allowing you to see how much oil pressure your system is currently running.
AFR:
Air to Fuel Ratio; the ratio of air-to-fuel of your exhaust gasses.

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1B: How to Turbo Your KA24
There are already a few great threads on here to help you turbocharge your KA24, so I will not write up another article. These are very much worth reading, so please do so:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=57570
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=6263
Z32 MAF Wiring
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=57802
How to Change Fuel Pump:
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=10417
How to Remove Oil Pan:
viewtopic.php?t=11060&highlight=s13+oil+pan+removal

1C: How Much HP Can I Make?
So you are stuck with a car that makes about 130-140 HP, and you are looking for a little more fun.

Fastest response:
T28/T25
Power:
250hp on 14psi:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=56345
225hp on 12psi:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=53355

Good response with slight lag:
T3
T3/T4

Power:
284hp on 14psi
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=59953
270hp on 9psi
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=56850

Delayed response with more lag:
Holset HX35
Power:
320hp on 10psi
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=58199
283hp on 12psi
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=33242

I did not go into anything bigger than an HX35 because people pushing huge turbos are usually building their cars to go in a straight line. If you are looking to do this, you don't need my advice, because there is a lot more to do to your car if you are planning on running a huge turbo.

2: Building a Motor
This thread is a GREAT place to start. The author goes into details about how to build and assemble a motor:
viewtopic.php?t=4156

Suggested list of parts:
Pistons:
-Weisco
-JE
-CP
Rods:
-Eagle H Beam
-Manley H Beam
-Brian Crower H Beam
-Maley I Beam (1000HP)
Bearings:
-ACL
-Clevite
Main and Head Studs:
-ARP
Head Gasket:
-Felpro (highly suggested)
-Cometic (must deck head and resurface block)
-Cosworth
Timing Chain Kit:
OEM is the ONLY option
Oil Pump:
OEM Nissan
Water Pump:
OEM

3: Emissions Removal
The 240sx motor has ALOT of emissions stuff scattered all over the engine bay. Almost none of it is necessary.

This link shows you how to remove your emissions:
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/intake ... embly.html

List of what can be removed:
EGR and canister conrol solenoid valve
EGRC-BPT valve
EGR valve
PAIRC-solenoid valve
Carbon Canister
PAIR valve

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Image
.
Every item listed in the above diagram can, and should be, removed; except for the Collector (obviously), fuel pressure regulator, and the IACV Valve.

4: FAQ
These links will answer most of your questions:
viewtopic.php?t=15142
viewforum.php?f=39

5: ECU Codes
-Turn the ignition switch to the on position, but do not start the engine. All of the 'dummy' lights in the dash should be on.

-Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the side of the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Now wait at least 2 seconds, and then turn the screw back to its original position (fully counter clockwise).

-The check engine light will then begin to flash the trouble code -
-The number of long flashes is the 1st digit, and the number of short flashes is the 2nd digit...

-So for example, a code 45 would be:
blink........blink........blink........blink - (short pause) - blink...blink...blink...blink...blink

-If there is only one code, it will flash over and over and over...

-If there is more than one code, it will flash the first, then the second, and so on...then just keep repeating the codes (in numerical order) over and over and over

Now you have 2 options:

-To clear all stored codes and turn off the check engine light, turn the ‘mode selector’ screw fully clockwise. Wait at least 2 seconds, then turn the screw all the way back counter clockwise. Then start the car...

-To keep the codes stored, simply turn the key off as the check engine light is flashing and the ECU will keep all stored codes and the check engine light will remain on.
*ka24development
-
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*From 240sx.org

6: Diagnosis
This link will help you diagnose what is wrong with your car. If you have a problem, see this page to answer most of your questions.
http://www.240sx.org/faq/

7: Misc
Blow Through MAF:
Blow through MAF is the process of relocating your MAF from the turbo inlet, to pre-throttlebody. This has many benefits over a pull through system (MAF on turbo inlet), of which are:
A more accurate reading of air being forced into the engine
Not needing to recirculate your BOV
Much more stable idle
No more stalling upon deceleration
Ability to operate the car functionally after a coupler has blown

How to set up blow through:
The reason you stall is because when you put the MAF on the turbo, the ECU reads how much air being sucked into the turbo. Then the ECU accounts for that air by throwing fuel in the motor to get the correct air to fuel ration. If your BOV lets that METERED air escape into the atmosphere, then there will be an excess of fuel dumped into the engine. This excess of fuel soaks the spark plugs, and the spark plugs cannot fire on the cylinders of the engine; this causes the engine to stall out.

To set up blow-through, simply move the MAF from pre-turbo, to just before the throttle body. Make sure you have a 6 inch straight section before the MAF, that way the MAF gets a more accurate reading. You must also extend your MAF wires to accommodate for moving the MAF:

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Come at me bro

Fast
Reliable
Cheap;
You can only pick two, so choose wisely!

My build thread: viewtopic.php?t=57539
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airman
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Re: NEW MEMBERS: READ THIS FIRST

Post by airman »

Great read and covers a lot for the new guys. Stickied! Thanks for this, shift.
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
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sdaigle240
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Re: NEW MEMBERS: READ THIS FIRST

Post by sdaigle240 »

excellent addition as ALWAYS shift.
airman wrote:I'm all about spreadsheets. Bitches love spreadsheets.
schmauster920 wrote:I shall cast my own pistons in the sands of time, then forge them in the depths of hell.. as funds allow
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hy35 18psi Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=38784
RIP MJL best friend of 20 years and the man who showed me 240s
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ZERTARACING
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Re: NEW MEMBERS: READ THIS FIRST

Post by ZERTARACING »

I have a Question,

I can't for the life of me find a section on this form to ask small questions

For example

Does anyone know the correct part number for the ARP 11mm head studs?

or

is this power goal obtainable....?

or

which manifold has the best clearance for the BMC?

I know Zilvia has a small questions thread to eliminate the clutter of new threads with questions like these, members on here could answer in one thread instead of replying to 2-3 threads for different people. Also it would be a great help to new people(like me) :) .

Maybe I missed it, but it would be a nice addition. Would be perfect in the KA-T chat sub-forum.

-Thomas
Building my S-chassis in my garage, piece by piece.
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shift_down
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Re: NEW MEMBERS: READ THIS FIRST

Post by shift_down »

Not a bad idea. I'll see what I can do.
Come at me bro

Fast
Reliable
Cheap;
You can only pick two, so choose wisely!

My build thread: viewtopic.php?t=57539
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ZERTARACING
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Re: NEW MEMBERS: READ THIS FIRST

Post by ZERTARACING »

shift_down wrote:Not a bad idea. I'll see what I can do.

Thanks for hearing me out, Hope we can do it soon.

-Thomas
Building my S-chassis in my garage, piece by piece.
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Rick
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Re: NEW MEMBERS: READ THIS FIRST

Post by Rick »

Very good idea! Thanks!

--Rick
••••••••••••••••••••••••
No... I don't own a 240 anymore!
••••••••••••••••••••••••
"Don't remind me of my failures, I haven't yet forgotten them"
Israels13
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Re: NEW MEMBERS: READ THIS FIRST

Post by Israels13 »

How do I start a thread on this forum
AJW240
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Re: NEW MEMBERS: READ THIS FIRST

Post by AJW240 »

Wow, great post, lots of good info here. I like that you put power goals on here, just one question about the power goals, is that what should be expected by just slapping a turbo on your vehicle, no other modifications? For example can I expect to get 280hp out of a T28 with additional modifications?
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