if you have an s14, and are into skid racing you know that 2.5* is about the max camber plates will yeild. id like to be closer to 3.5-4*.
i really just want to bounce some ideas off you to make sure this makes sence and is safe.
option 2 - more legit
note the hole spacing - this yeilds 2 more degrees of camber
plan would be to turn a plug to weld in the upper hole and just redrill afterward.
option 1 - is this sketchy?
just put a smaller bolt in the top hole, shift the bracket back and tighten. maybe even stuff something in there so it cant move. what you think?
my extended brackets. you can see the hole spacing is the same so no camber gain.
Mods to increase s14 front camber
- sdaigle240
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 4670
- Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:53 am
- Location: CONN.
Mods to increase s14 front camber
airman wrote:I'm all about spreadsheets. Bitches love spreadsheets.
schmauster920 wrote:I shall cast my own pistons in the sands of time, then forge them in the depths of hell.. as funds allow
hy35 18psi Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=38784
RIP MJL best friend of 20 years and the man who showed me 240s
- beercandrifter
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 2271
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:57 am
- Location: Melbourne, FL
would recommend just making new plates with new material, cut off the brake hardline mount point, weld to new bracket and weld to strut housing.
you can weld shut the existing top hole and redrill, should be ok going that route as long as the welds are done good (could also tack on a new plate w/ diff bolt pattern on the outside of your existing ones)
do you have camber plates on your struts yet? if not i would pick up some: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s14/ ... nissan-s14
if your running coilovers, kinda a moot point since they have them already.
with as many 240 drifters as there are I am surprised they dont offer plates with different camber adjustment points like what you are trying to do. hrm
you can weld shut the existing top hole and redrill, should be ok going that route as long as the welds are done good (could also tack on a new plate w/ diff bolt pattern on the outside of your existing ones)
do you have camber plates on your struts yet? if not i would pick up some: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s14/ ... nissan-s14
if your running coilovers, kinda a moot point since they have them already.
with as many 240 drifters as there are I am surprised they dont offer plates with different camber adjustment points like what you are trying to do. hrm
91 240sx Hatch: HomeBrwd
25psi hx35/8.8:1/264^2 cams/95lb injectors/Megasquirt 2/ka24de build **RIP**
T56/4.8 LSx/LS9 Cam/60lb injectors/comp 918 springs/Megasquirt 3/all custom wiring
25psi hx35/8.8:1/264^2 cams/95lb injectors/Megasquirt 2/ka24de build **RIP**
T56/4.8 LSx/LS9 Cam/60lb injectors/comp 918 springs/Megasquirt 3/all custom wiring
- sdaigle240
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 4670
- Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:53 am
- Location: CONN.
musta breezed over it, yeah i said i got camber plates its an s14 problem... s13 guys have more adjustment then we do by liek a degree and then they add s14 LCAs and can hit like 4-5*
i dont like the idea of welding new tabs to the threaded strut housing. id guess that have a threaded blank the use as a heat sink when welding them. but welding closed the hole and redrill i like. i can tig plenty well enough for that job. guess ill add it to the winter project list, along with cut n shut knuckels, 7mm inner tie rod spacers to replace the 6mm and abercrombie outter drop tie rods.
i dont like the idea of welding new tabs to the threaded strut housing. id guess that have a threaded blank the use as a heat sink when welding them. but welding closed the hole and redrill i like. i can tig plenty well enough for that job. guess ill add it to the winter project list, along with cut n shut knuckels, 7mm inner tie rod spacers to replace the 6mm and abercrombie outter drop tie rods.
airman wrote:I'm all about spreadsheets. Bitches love spreadsheets.
schmauster920 wrote:I shall cast my own pistons in the sands of time, then forge them in the depths of hell.. as funds allow
hy35 18psi Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=38784
RIP MJL best friend of 20 years and the man who showed me 240s
-
- 240sx Wannabe
- Posts: 120
- Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:01 pm
- Location: FL
Its not very common, but there is an eccentric bushing/bolt setup for the flca, they're pretty expensive, around $250 iirc. It seems as though you are trying to work with what you have for now though(Which i understand)
It is very common and many ppl have done so safely(Thus far at least) what you are contemplating w/the drilling of the holes to simply adjust, instead of weld shut and redrill. Just a thought, it may be better to do that instead of closing off the original hole creating a permenant alteration in cas you do need to adjust it back in for another setup/car/sale etc...
The last thing I'd say for you w/out spending more big bux(Especially since you can do mild welding it sounds like) is modding your flcas by deleting the rubber mount and fabbing a spherical bushing setup just like is used by your favorite aftermarket flcas(Ikeya,GS,Megan,PBM,etc). IIRC a few guys on Zilvia did that w/+ results. While you're at it w/your fabbing and tie rod setup notching your flcas like Eazye did couldn't hurt
It is very common and many ppl have done so safely(Thus far at least) what you are contemplating w/the drilling of the holes to simply adjust, instead of weld shut and redrill. Just a thought, it may be better to do that instead of closing off the original hole creating a permenant alteration in cas you do need to adjust it back in for another setup/car/sale etc...
The last thing I'd say for you w/out spending more big bux(Especially since you can do mild welding it sounds like) is modding your flcas by deleting the rubber mount and fabbing a spherical bushing setup just like is used by your favorite aftermarket flcas(Ikeya,GS,Megan,PBM,etc). IIRC a few guys on Zilvia did that w/+ results. While you're at it w/your fabbing and tie rod setup notching your flcas like Eazye did couldn't hurt
- emo_tactical9
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 3086
- Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2007 3:21 am
- Location: Bowling Green, KY
I just slotted the top bolt hole on the strut mount with a dremel. Use the same size bolts, they need to match the upright . It has held fine for me with street driving and autocross with slicks.
Last edited by emo_tactical9 on Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Just call me Adam.
95 240: DIYPNP and T28.
08 Honda Fit
84 200sx: Sold after almost 10 years.
My file hosting:Calum,MegaSquirt,FSM
95 240: DIYPNP and T28.
08 Honda Fit
84 200sx: Sold after almost 10 years.
My file hosting:Calum,MegaSquirt,FSM
- sdaigle240
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 4670
- Joined: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:53 am
- Location: CONN.
wow thatnks for the added confidence guys!
eric, im on it!
ashy lary, some good points.
as for getting my alignment back in spec i have no worry i could run like +8 degrees with all this adjustment lol. the adjustment is just in the wrong place, theres not much for negative.
the chopped FLCA with heim joint is potentially on the list. the biggest gain with that setup seems to be no FLCA bind from high caster. the stock setup binds a bit when u get up there like 8*. but yeah it would help for camber. but as youve noted im trying for the easy and cheap rout, so this would be a latter option to the others. great thoughts though.
Adam, your the ***** man! thank you. im doing it.
yep, our community rocks.
eric, im on it!
ashy lary, some good points.
as for getting my alignment back in spec i have no worry i could run like +8 degrees with all this adjustment lol. the adjustment is just in the wrong place, theres not much for negative.
the chopped FLCA with heim joint is potentially on the list. the biggest gain with that setup seems to be no FLCA bind from high caster. the stock setup binds a bit when u get up there like 8*. but yeah it would help for camber. but as youve noted im trying for the easy and cheap rout, so this would be a latter option to the others. great thoughts though.
Adam, your the ***** man! thank you. im doing it.
yep, our community rocks.
airman wrote:I'm all about spreadsheets. Bitches love spreadsheets.
schmauster920 wrote:I shall cast my own pistons in the sands of time, then forge them in the depths of hell.. as funds allow
hy35 18psi Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=38784
RIP MJL best friend of 20 years and the man who showed me 240s
- emo_tactical9
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 3086
- Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2007 3:21 am
- Location: Bowling Green, KY
I'm sure you understood, but I meant the top bolt hole, not the bolt. You don't have to slot it much, theupright will contact the strut body. I have done this with my 200sx DD also, it is the easiest/cheapest way to get camber.sdaigle240 wrote:wow thatnks for the added confidence guys!
eric, im on it!
ashy lary, some good points.
as for getting my alignment back in spec i have no worry i could run like +8 degrees with all this adjustment lol. the adjustment is just in the wrong place, theres not much for negative.
the chopped FLCA with heim joint is potentially on the list. the biggest gain with that setup seems to be no FLCA bind from high caster. the stock setup binds a bit when u get up there like 8*. but yeah it would help for camber. but as youve noted im trying for the easy and cheap rout, so this would be a latter option to the others. great thoughts though.
Adam, your the ***** man! thank you. im doing it.
yep, our community rocks.
Just call me Adam.
95 240: DIYPNP and T28.
08 Honda Fit
84 200sx: Sold after almost 10 years.
My file hosting:Calum,MegaSquirt,FSM
95 240: DIYPNP and T28.
08 Honda Fit
84 200sx: Sold after almost 10 years.
My file hosting:Calum,MegaSquirt,FSM