Mods to increase s14 front camber

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sdaigle240
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Mods to increase s14 front camber

Post by sdaigle240 »

if you have an s14, and are into skid racing you know that 2.5* is about the max camber plates will yeild. id like to be closer to 3.5-4*.

i really just want to bounce some ideas off you to make sure this makes sence and is safe.



option 2 - more legit

note the hole spacing - this yeilds 2 more degrees of camber
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plan would be to turn a plug to weld in the upper hole and just redrill afterward.



option 1 - is this sketchy?

just put a smaller bolt in the top hole, shift the bracket back and tighten. maybe even stuff something in there so it cant move. what you think?


my extended brackets. you can see the hole spacing is the same so no camber gain.
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beercandrifter
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Post by beercandrifter »

would recommend just making new plates with new material, cut off the brake hardline mount point, weld to new bracket and weld to strut housing.

you can weld shut the existing top hole and redrill, should be ok going that route as long as the welds are done good (could also tack on a new plate w/ diff bolt pattern on the outside of your existing ones)


do you have camber plates on your struts yet? if not i would pick up some: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/s14/ ... nissan-s14
if your running coilovers, kinda a moot point since they have them already.

with as many 240 drifters as there are I am surprised they dont offer plates with different camber adjustment points like what you are trying to do. hrm
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Post by sdaigle240 »

musta breezed over it, yeah i said i got camber plates :P its an s14 problem... s13 guys have more adjustment then we do by liek a degree and then they add s14 LCAs and can hit like 4-5*

i dont like the idea of welding new tabs to the threaded strut housing. id guess that have a threaded blank the use as a heat sink when welding them. but welding closed the hole and redrill i like. i can tig plenty well enough for that job. guess ill add it to the winter project list, along with cut n shut knuckels, 7mm inner tie rod spacers to replace the 6mm and abercrombie outter drop tie rods.
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Post by eazye2000 »

I got those lower extended mounts too. You can oblong the bottom hole a little more if you'd like. It's almost the same as adding a smaller diameter bolt in that top hole. But don't do both, I personally don't recommend it, but that's just me. One or the other. My $.02
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Post by ashy-larry »

Its not very common, but there is an eccentric bushing/bolt setup for the flca, they're pretty expensive, around $250 iirc. It seems as though you are trying to work with what you have for now though(Which i understand)

It is very common and many ppl have done so safely(Thus far at least) what you are contemplating w/the drilling of the holes to simply adjust, instead of weld shut and redrill. Just a thought, it may be better to do that instead of closing off the original hole creating a permenant alteration in cas you do need to adjust it back in for another setup/car/sale etc...

The last thing I'd say for you w/out spending more big bux(Especially since you can do mild welding it sounds like) is modding your flcas by deleting the rubber mount and fabbing a spherical bushing setup just like is used by your favorite aftermarket flcas(Ikeya,GS,Megan,PBM,etc). IIRC a few guys on Zilvia did that w/+ results. While you're at it w/your fabbing and tie rod setup notching your flcas like Eazye did couldn't hurt ;)
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Post by emo_tactical9 »

I just slotted the top bolt hole on the strut mount with a dremel. Use the same size bolts, they need to match the upright . It has held fine for me with street driving and autocross with slicks.
Last edited by emo_tactical9 on Sun Mar 10, 2013 7:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by sdaigle240 »

wow thatnks for the added confidence guys!

eric, im on it!


ashy lary, some good points.
as for getting my alignment back in spec i have no worry i could run like +8 degrees with all this adjustment lol. the adjustment is just in the wrong place, theres not much for negative.

the chopped FLCA with heim joint is potentially on the list. the biggest gain with that setup seems to be no FLCA bind from high caster. the stock setup binds a bit when u get up there like 8*. but yeah it would help for camber. but as youve noted im trying for the easy and cheap rout, so this would be a latter option to the others. great thoughts though.


Adam, your the ***** man! thank you. im doing it.


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Post by eazye2000 »

sdaigle240 wrote: yep, our community rocks.
Fvckin' right doggy...
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Post by emo_tactical9 »

sdaigle240 wrote:wow thatnks for the added confidence guys!

eric, im on it!


ashy lary, some good points.
as for getting my alignment back in spec i have no worry i could run like +8 degrees with all this adjustment lol. the adjustment is just in the wrong place, theres not much for negative.

the chopped FLCA with heim joint is potentially on the list. the biggest gain with that setup seems to be no FLCA bind from high caster. the stock setup binds a bit when u get up there like 8*. but yeah it would help for camber. but as youve noted im trying for the easy and cheap rout, so this would be a latter option to the others. great thoughts though.


Adam, your the ***** man! thank you. im doing it.


yep, our community rocks.
I'm sure you understood, but I meant the top bolt hole, not the bolt. You don't have to slot it much, theupright will contact the strut body. I have done this with my 200sx DD also, it is the easiest/cheapest way to get camber.
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