New Project: Mild build

This is for all those PICTURE THREADS ONLY. Motor installs, product writeups, showing off your car, put the thread in here.
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cleantune
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New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

Sorry for the quality of the pics. Courtesy of the budget cam! I'll add more pics as the build progresses.

Haha, I have inspection at the end of the month! Wateva... whateva...

Fitment:
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How did you guys get the EGR off of the headers? I keep slipp'n!:roll:
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Last edited by cleantune on Fri Mar 27, 2009 1:31 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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hotrodstu77
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Post by hotrodstu77 »

i just unbolted mine at the intake and then cut it down closer to the header, then pinched it and welded it shut. that if your tryin to block it off. if not then use liquid wrench and a good wrench.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by wcbjr »

cleantune wrote: How did you guys get the EGR off of the headers? I keep slipp'n!:roll:
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1210690160
With a sawzall. And then remove the rest of the EGR system on the intake.
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cleantune
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Post by cleantune »

{UPDATED PICS} Its taking me forever!

I made the mistake of trying to take the sway bar bolts off with a "star patterned socket instead of a 14mm hex like I should have. Since it was next to the new sway bushing I could not torch it, so I started destroying just the one side of it so I could still screw it off if it decided to let me!
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After the nut was grinded with a dremel down to the threads, a center punch was used on the left edge of the cut and it started to turn. Pliers were used to grab and loosen it further. Then it got stuck. So I used a screw driver to tap it and it slipped and my thumb hit the front brace (the edges are REALLY sharp!)

DO NOT CLICK ON THE LINK BELOW IF YOU ARE SQUEEMISH OF BLOOD!
SERIOUSLY!!!
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1210888646

Here's the bolt of satan that took three days and a trip to the ER to get off.
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Why go through all this trouble? http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... GA0020.jpg
Last edited by cleantune on Fri Mar 27, 2009 1:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by Drift845 »

cleantune wrote:{UPDATED PICS} Its taking me forever!
Thats called blood...haha .....dude i work in the or..but i bet that hurt
them lil ass cuts like that always hurt !
I made the mistake of trying to take the sway bar bolts off with a "star patterned socket instead of a 14mm hex like I should have. Since it was next to the new sway bushing I could not torch it, so I started destroying just the one side of it so I could still screw it off if it decided to let me!
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1210888210

After the nut was grinded with a dremel down to the threads, a center punch was used on the left edge of the cut and it started to turn. Pliers were used to grab and loosen it further. Then it got stuck. So I used a screw driver to tap it and it slipped and my thumb hit the front brace (the edges are REALLY sharp!)

DO NOT CLICK ON THE LINK BELOW IF YOU ARE SQUEEMISH OF BLOOD!
SERIOUSLY!!!
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1210888646

Here's the bolt of satan that took three days and a trip to the ER to get off.
http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... GA0019.jpg

Why go through all this trouble?
http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... GA0020.jpg
Yeah um..... so so who cares if my cars not the fastest...its sure the hell not the slowest!

Goal for spring of 11 is 12.9sec 1/4 for less then 1500$!!! i think i can do it !!!!


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isis 3360
sti injectors
z32
egay manifold
greddy fmic
ecu...working on that
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Post by cleantune »

H£LP! the bolts from the header to the mid-pipe wont come off! Tried penetrating oil, tapping them and started to drill one.

Did you guys take just the headers off, or the headers and the mid-pipe?

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1211217560

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1211217821

The catalytic converter is way easier to get to, but the bolts look like they need ALOT of persuasion to come off
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1211217891
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Post by cleantune »

NEVERMIND ITS OFF!!!
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Post by cleantune »

Here are some pics of the oil pan and oil return "bung", oh And it was sanded and painted matte black
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1212082606
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1212082738

The turbo manifold from ETS
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1212082835
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1212082882

Exhaust gasket
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1212082928

Manifold mounted
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1212082971

Starting to come together:)
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1212083032

everything fit awesome, the wastegate recirculation flange just needs to be lined up with the flange on the wastegate. The oil return is on, but the oil feed line is a different story...
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Post by cleantune »

Oil pressure sensor was removed with a 27mm deep socket. I figured I'd mention the size of the socket because its hard to find searching, plus it was way easier than using an adjustable wrench:)
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1212086431

The oil pressure sensor attached to the oil feed line adapter
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1212088239

The thread size on the male end of the T-fitting is not metric and so it is slightly too big for the treads where the original oil pressure sensor was located, but the oil pressure sensor fit into the female side of the T-fitting...WEIRD.

I was looking at Issue 3 of Project Car magazine where they cover a turbo kit install into an Integra. THe oil feed fitting for their turbo setup has an extra piece on the end (silver in the pic below). I'm guessing that this piece converts the threads to metric?
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... 1212088660

Does anyone know where I could find a piece like this? I've checked Lowes and quite a few sites like JGS.

Where did you guys find a piece for the oil feed line from the block? (I am only using the one port from the original oil pressure sensor next to the oil filter.
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Post by 240cp »

Dude, why dont you just host the pic's on here? You have photobucket just right click and copy the image code to this thread. By the way that thumb had to f'n hurt!!!
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Post by lov2xlr8 »

here you go:
http://stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-blockfit.shtml

that adapter fitting will make your life a lot easier. screw your OEM sender on the end and you'll have two 1/8 NPT threads on the sides, one can be used for your turbo feed and you can plug the other one or conect it to an oil press. gauge, good luck....
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Post by cleantune »

Image
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Post by cleantune »

Figured out how to post pics! WOOT!
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Post by drifty240 »

would be a nice build thread if i didnt have to be teased one picture at a time :lol:

jk, glad to see it comming along....
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Post by cleantune »

*Update*

Walbro pump and Z32 feul filter (no pic) installed
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Does anyone know what this sensor does on an s14? It was on the center rad support. I had to take it off to fit the front mount. I thought it was an Airbag sensor or maybe a smaller horn? (It looked like the wires were coming from the horn wire harness).
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Sorry for the one pic at a time build...its my first time :oops:
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Post by driftedfc3s »

I believe it's an ambient air-temp sensor for the HVAC system.
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Post by Tad_07 »

driftedfc3s wrote:I believe it's an ambient air-temp sensor for the HVAC system.
I think its the impact sensor for the air bags...
Do you have a bigger pic?
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Post by seanc »

driftedfc3s wrote:I believe it's an ambient air-temp sensor for the HVAC system.
werd, you got it mang.
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Post by cleantune »

All of you guys builds on here are looking REALLY sick! Its been A while since I posted an update. sorry for the trash quality pics.

. Personally I'm not a fan of the color, but its whatever
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So one day I got anxious and thought could install the cams without instructions. I BROKE a BC exhaust cam when reinstalling them. I tightened the cam retainers at 5 lbs in a diagonal from INSIDE to OUTSIDE in the same pattern as the head....

I heard a crack...I found out later that I broke it. Now I know to tighten the cam retainers from OUTSIDE to INSIDE in a diagonal pattern
http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm31 ... GA0686.jpg[/img]
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timing chain assembly

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feel free to leave comments, positive or negative, thanks
Last edited by cleantune on Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by cleantune »

Updated parts list:

Engine:
-R&W machined block and head
-R&W machined pistons
-Eagle Rods
-clevite bearings
-Cometic head gasket
-ARP head studs
-BC 272 cams

Turbo side parts:
-Garret t3/t4 , 57 trim compressor, stage 3 turbine with a .48A/R
-ETS fully TIG welded, Heavy wall Stainless Steel (304L stainless, thickness of 1/8"), Equal Length Manifold
-ETS 2.5' downpipe
-2.5" to 3.0" midpipe
-3.0" cat-back
-38mm Tial wastegate
-stainless oil lines

Intake components:
-Z32 MAF
-2.5" mandrel bent piping
-type RFL blow-off valve
-ETS small intercooler (upgraded to GReddy intercooler, pics coming soon)

Fuel:
-Walboro 255 lph
-Nismo side-feed 555's
-Z32 fuel filter

Ecu:
-OBII to OBI converson harness (courtesy of "adamky")
-chipped S13 KA ECU

Clutch:
-Competition stage 3 carbon kevlar
Last edited by cleantune on Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:27 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by cleantune »

new pic of GReddy FMIC and the notched crash bumper
Image
Last edited by cleantune on Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by KoukiLOV3 »

Damn, Nice build man. Mine will look something similar to yours. Keep us updated!
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Post by SammyGreen »

nice build bud, looks great!
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Post by Crash33 »

Are you upgrading your valve train? I thought with anything bigger than 252 or something like that you have to upgrade your valve train with better springs.
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Post by cleantune »

Thanks for the feedback guys:)
Crash33 wrote:Are you upgrading your valve train? I thought with anything bigger than 252 or something like that you have to upgrade your valve train with better springs.

You're right, the motor right now has oversized valves and probably stronger springs. One of the exhaust valves bent though so its getting rebuilt again "on the house" because it was the machine shops fault. I am still waiting for the specs on the valve train from the shop, I'll post it as soon as I get it though
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Post by cleantune »

Why it is a great idea to double and even triple check valve clearances:
Image

Oh and check out how clean the piston is after running the engine for a while, no feul was even getting into it!
...and so onto rebuild #2... :roll:
Will post more when possible
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Post by street_240sx »

*cry* i would be so ticked off and amazed if i saw that :wtf:
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Post by greenka-t »

thats beacause you had that honda stuff on your hood lol
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Post by twinturboz161 »

dam that sucks man. Good luck with #2
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Post by cleantune »

Its been a while.
wheels with alot of oxidation and fresh curbrash from previous owners, got a good deal on them though
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clear coat came off of fender
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The hood fell onto one of those tall jack stands (kind of a long story) if only it had fallen directly in the center :?
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hooked up the horn to a switch to pass inspection. Lolz These are NOT staying in the car for long. I plan on taking them out as soon as possible. :)

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Its now on rebuild number three and it wont stay running. It has been retuned to 14 psi and is making about 280 whp. It starts right up and dies. It runs itself lean. I'm guessing its the fpr again (last time when it was running rich the fpr was stuck open) or maybe the fuel filter? The gas has been sitting in it for a while too.

I'm goin crazy trying to figure out why this car never stays running for long! Do you guys have any ideas as to what this could be? Has this happened to any of you guys?
Last edited by cleantune on Mon Jul 09, 2012 8:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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