New Project: Mild build

This is for all those PICTURE THREADS ONLY. Motor installs, product writeups, showing off your car, put the thread in here.
adamky
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

Ballin. I was close to buying one of those after I spun a bearing in my last motor. The problem was that you have to choose between a manual or electric shutoff. The electric would be the way to go for a street car, since you could hook it to the ignition switch for auto shut-off and priming. But apparently the electric one doesn't flow well compared to the manual. I had pretty much decided to buy the manual valve and then talked myself into focusing on my oil pan trap doors. I'd still like to add one some day, but it just seemed like a lot of hassle for a DD.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

adamky wrote:Ballin. I was close to buying one of those after I spun a bearing in my last motor. The problem was that you have to choose between a manual or electric shutoff. The electric would be the way to go for a street car, since you could hook it to the ignition switch for auto shut-off and priming. But apparently the electric one doesn't flow well compared to the manual. I had pretty much decided to buy the manual valve and then talked myself into focusing on my oil pan trap doors. I'd still like to add one some day, but it just seemed like a lot of hassle for a DD.
hah, thanks. I'm hearing of more people starting to use these just for their engine preoil feature too, since startup is often where a lot of engine wear occurs. These things are rebuildable and virtually bullet-proof if installed correctly.

I was on the phone with a rep from Canton Racing (very nice, helpful and knowledgable) yesterday asking about setup, initial startup, etc. Supposedly this is the deal with the valves:

manual ball valve
- good for engines that "see" constant RPM ranges (ex: circle track, nascar, planes, boats, etc)
- good for pre oiling engine
- not ideal for engines that see wide ranges of RPM (ex: track racing, drag racing (to some extent), drifting, etc) because with the valve always open the sump is constantly emptying and trying to refill itself; so probable oil pressure fluctuations (***with a precharge of 7-10 psi on the air side of the sump, I'm not 100% sold on this theory yet).

EPC valve (new electric pressure controlled switch; look for the new "X" version because it doesn't have a diaphragm)
- good for all RPM ranges
- choose minimum pressure (by selecting sensor) that the oil will be released
- manual override "oil dump" switch for engine preoiling
- can be controlled through ECU to open/ close at certain RPM ranges
- direct replacement for manual ball valve

It's recommended that the valve be no more than 1-2 ft away from the accusump and that no sharp 90 degree bends are used. So, technically the manual valve could be mounted away from the tank and within reach of the driver. Also, I was told the EPC valves have mounting holes incorporated into the housing for a secure install.

Another interesting point that was made during our conversation was the restriction in flow that a check valve may create, since most have some type of obstruction in them. Supposedly a little back flow is not an issue (and some oil filters have a built in check valve) and even when using a "T" fitting w/o check valve, the oil from the accusump will still make it into the engine if a drop in pressure is sensed. There was a guy using one of these setups with an LS motor in a "desert racer" and didn't like the pressures he was seeing, so he called for advice, and taking out the check valve solved the pressure problems- with no complaints.

I'll try to post more on this with pics as progress continues. It was recommended that the oil system is expanded in phases to ensure functionality of components with the least amount of variables at one time. So focus will be on installing the cooler, oil filter relocation and thermostat before any of the other components.




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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

updates!
*I appologize for the blurry pics

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Many people hate on using the z32 calipers with the larger z33 rotors (used with the factory option brembo caliper)....I know. So much time was spent looking into this difference of opinion and facts, but first, a little about these:

• 324mm (12.75") x 30mm
• rotationally balanced, 15 lbs/ rotor and 5lbs less than the factory 1 piece version
• 2 pc design allows for more even expansion without "coning effect" that one piece rotors may experience
• centers machined from forged 6061 aluminum blanks, heat treated, "black-hard" anodizing finish
• "open face" for more airflow
• Alloy iron disk, heat treated and stress relieved (with EPD coating for corrosion resistance)
• 60% larger directional cooling vanes
• zinc coated hardware
•heat treated m6 "slot-nuts"
• quenched and tempered SAE Grade 10.9 bolts

* product has been "rigorously tested" in Time Attack, local track events and "aggressive street driving".

So, onto the caliper/rotor combo disputte. Please note I have noot The number one reason seems to be this:

>> z32 caliper is designed for a smaller 11" diameter (still 30mm thick) z32 rotor, so pads do not have proper contact.

-without trimming the caliper (DONT RECOMMEND AT ALL because the fluid passages are internal), the z32 pads will loose some contact area (very small amount of the top of the pad will not contact the rotor - because different radius caliper is sitting on; however the change in radius is fairly small on one side over the 4.5" distance length that the front z32 pads cover. Supposedly there are pads that are similar to the 300zx/ z32 front pads that are shorter in height (if one is truly concerned about this.

If looking at the even amount of area that the pistons cover, the small amount of decreased area is not physically enough to cause any irregular wear on the pistons or piston walls. The whole piston is in contact with the OEM z32 pad and the large majority of the pad is in contact with the surface it is pushing against, so there is no efficient point for the piston to pivot and cause irregular wear within the piston housing in the caliper.

Some positives about just upgrading the front rotor size:
1. larger surface for better heat dissipation
2. Maintain OEM z32 F to R brake bias
3. more "torque" to help stopping power of calipers (rotor is closer to the diameter of the wheel, explained on some sites as giving the brakes more "leverage"; which translates to less pressure applied to give the same stopping force (***so maybe this would affect the brake bias????**)
4. *should fit under 17" wheels

These would require brackets/ hardware to bring the calipers out for the larger diameter rotor and possibly custom brake lines to reach. Still not sure if these will be used or not.

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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Currently looking into improving the oil system. I have decided to hold off on installing the Accusump and focus on the pan and new baffling. After talking to a rep from accusump, their electric valve setup (used only as a reserve and for pre oil) seems like the best option for an engine that would "see" constant fluctuations in RPM and oil pressure; and honestly I still don't fully understand the functions of these systems.

For example: once oil is released with the electronic valve, does it stay open to refill the canister or would it just flood the oil pan with excess oil and then slowly refill?
....so going to hold off on this for now.

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On a different subject, has anyone had success with HIDs?
I had a new kit sitting around for a while and decided to install it the other day. I installed it directly to the lights w/o the included relay harness because I figured the OEM headlight wiring should have its own relays. Now the lights will turn on, but then about a half hour later they start flickering and eventually shut off. I have not tried them with the engine running, but I have tested their function with just the battery connected and with the battery and battery charger/ charge maintainer connected with similar results.
I'm going to check out the grounds and other connections, but any help or advice is welcomed : ]
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by s14fiend »

cleantune wrote:.
Currently looking into improving the oil system. I have decided to hold off on installing the Accusump and focus on the pan and new baffling. After talking to a rep from accusump, their electric valve setup (used only as a reserve and for pre oil) seems like the best option for an engine that would "see" constant fluctuations in RPM and oil pressure; and honestly I still don't fully understand the functions of these systems.

For example: once oil is released with the electronic valve, does it stay open to refill the canister or would it just flood the oil pan with excess oil and then slowly refill?
....so going to hold off on this for now.

-------

On a different subject, has anyone had success with HIDs?
I had a new kit sitting around for a while and decided to install it the other day. I installed it directly to the lights w/o the included relay harness because I figured the OEM headlight wiring should have its own relays. Now the lights will turn on, but then about a half hour later they start flickering and eventually shut off. I have not tried them with the engine running, but I have tested their function with just the battery connected and with the battery and battery charger/ charge maintainer connected with similar results.
I'm going to check out the grounds and other connections, but any help or advice is welcomed : ]

As far as HID since we have older cars the wiring goes bad so if it's in your budget redo all the wiring or just simply ground out the HID kit and see if that works.

As far as the Accusump I think YOU should do it if it's not your primary vehicle and change your thread name to "SPICY Build" lol.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

s14fiend wrote:As far as HID since we have older cars the wiring goes bad so if it's in your budget redo all the wiring or just simply ground out the HID kit and see if that works.

As far as the Accusump I think YOU should do it if it's not your primary vehicle and change your thread name to "SPICY Build" lol.

Thanks s14fiend :D

The HID's are not too big of a deal (I may just go back to regular bulbs), but it is pretty annoying. I might try the ground idea you had suggested because now that you mention it, I ended up using a ground wire for the OEM bulbs because they were not grounding in the headlight housing for some reason.

So this is what the HID problem sounds like:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_V4eGcZoS8

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

Some updates:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RHndch1LYQ

Still waiting on the Xcessive half, but in the meantime, cleaning up the pan a bit to make sure no shavings were left behind. I noticed some rough edges, which shouldn't really affect anything, but I'm super meticulous about this hind of stuff, haha. Other than that, just a little trim on one of the holes (for attachment bolt) and a few more inspections of the hinged door operation and should be ready to intall. The hinges are pretty free flowing and there ARE other small passages for oil to "level out" in the pan, but again, just to double check. I'd also like to see about maybe using the included windage tray, if a removable attachment design is possible.

Also looking to improve cooling components and paint.

Image

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

That is BASA55. I had no idea Canton made this. So jelly...

EDIT: It looks pretty thick, which makes me wonder about ground clearance. I'm running the cast aluminum Isis Greddy-knockoff and it's currently the lowest thing on my car. Would you mind measuring the tall end of the sump? I'd like to compare it to my pan height.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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haha, thanks man!

I didn't know they made this either! or any parts specifically for import cars for that matter.

The flange on this pan is basically just the top surface of the pan; instead of having a thin flange with a "neck" and then to the rest of the pan...hopefully this is why it looks thicker? The mounting bolts for the left and right rows of the pan actually go through the pan, through aluminum sleeves that are sealed from the inner contents of the pan; and aid in structure.

Ok, so I took some measurements (putting the metal lip of the tape measure on the surface where the pan would mate to the upper pan; upper-most surface of the pan to the bottom-most surface of the pan) in 4 spots:

Short end- top to bottom- 2 "
from left row of mounting holes-top to bottom- 2 1/4 "
from right row of mounting holes- top to bottom- 3 "
Tall end-top to bottom- 3 1/4 "

... I would be very interested to know what the Greddy-style pan measurements are as well (measured in the same way) if you wouldn't mind; I think that would be some great info to have on here!

__ ___ _ __

Tomei's pan appears much thinner and shorter, but I believe its more of an "optical illusion", since the front and rear bottom edges are beveled and there is a "neck" for the top mounting flange.

There is also an ISR welded pan that looks like the Tomei pan:
Image
Image
Image



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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

I see what you are saying about the flange and overall design versus the others. Thats probably what makes it look thicker. I can't measure mine right now, but I will measure it when I get a chance.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by JimmBooost »

That is a sickkkk oil pan. I'd thought Moroso makes one for our KA's but I can't seem to find it.. probably had mistake it for the SR one.

When time comes, this Canton pan might be the one.

Edit: We're able to use SR20 Oil Pan? If so care to explain the needs. Thank
Edit: So you can use the SR20 bottom half, having read super street article I understand the use of xcessive half being able to keep the OEM oil pick up. This is cool. Haha
Last edited by JimmBooost on Mon Apr 10, 2017 7:40 am, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

I'm glad to see you changed your focus from the Accusump to the oil pan. Mostly because I went through the same thought process you went through and arrived at the same conclusion!

Have they mentioned anything about pan to pickup clearance? I used their suggestion from their website which was 3/8". Mine was over 3/4", so I ended up making a ~3/8" oil pickup spacer to move my pickup closer to the pan. It went from ~3/4" to 3/8". With that and my improved, counter-weighted trap doors, I have had great oil pressure. I just got my oil pressure logging working tonight through Nismotronic. So, I'll have more info on oil pressure data in the future. But so far everything​ is working well.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

JimmBooost wrote:That is a sickkkk oil pan.
Edit: We're able to use SR20 Oil Pan? If so care to explain the needs. Thank
Edit: So you can use the SR20 bottom half, having read super street article I understand the use of xcessive half being able to keep the OEM oil pick up. This is cool. Haha
hah, thanks! I'm hoping it works like its supposed to.
Yes, you got it! Our Ka24de engines can use the lower Sr20 oil pan with the Xcessive cast upper oil pan.


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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

adamky wrote:I'm glad to see you changed your focus from the Accusump to the oil pan. Mostly because I went through the same thought process you went through and arrived at the same conclusion!

Have they mentioned anything about pan to pickup clearance? I used their suggestion from their website which was 3/8". Mine was over 3/4", so I ended up making a ~3/8" oil pickup spacer to move my pickup closer to the pan. It went from ~3/4" to 3/8". With that and my improved, counter-weighted trap doors, I have had great oil pressure. I just got my oil pressure logging working tonight through Nismotronic. So, I'll have more info on oil pressure data in the future. But so far everything​ is working well.
haha, nice! Yeah, if there is any question about the function of a critical engine part (in my mind at least), its good to explore other options. I'd really like to see a "lab" setup with a clear cylinder accusump and clear tubing to visualize it better. (maybe there is a video online somewhere?).

Was the suggestion for pickup clearance from Xcessive? or the lower pan company?

I'm glad you mentioned the pan clearance and measurements. I was just going to "wing it", overfilling it with oil and then hope it works :mrgreen: .... nah kidding, I wouldn't do that.
I'm going to go back to your thread and look at your pan notes again. I remember you posting pics of the pickup spacer you made. I'm sure I'll have a lot of questions for you haha. Glad to hear the pan setup is working great too!

....man, and I thought maybe this would all just be bolt on, haha.

The other half should be here by the end of the week. I'd like to swap the pan without removing the engine and trans, if possible.

I emailed Xcessive about their pan design and I'm going to try to make "access ports" through the rear bracket for the rear oil pan mounting bolts (normally one would have to remove the transmission to install the rear bolts of this upper pan. The rear bracket is not vital for the pan structure. I plan to cut away as little as possible, but if this does not work, its comforting to know that the pan will still retain its structural integrity without this rear bracket.

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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by JimmBooost »

cleantune wrote:
JimmBooost wrote:That is a sickkkk oil pan.
Edit: We're able to use SR20 Oil Pan? If so care to explain the needs. Thank
Edit: So you can use the SR20 bottom half, having read super street article I understand the use of xcessive half being able to keep the OEM oil pick up. This is cool. Haha
hah, thanks! I'm hoping it works like its supposed to.
Yes, you got it! Our Ka24de engines can use the lower Sr20 oil pan with the Xcessive cast upper oil pan.


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Yeah, i had thought it was one peice. Haha well that's going to be on the list for the my block.
As you mentions about Adams modified oil pick to reach his measures for oil starvation..and trap doors for his ISR oil pan I had just got done reading that page haha. Going to be considering this mod also when I get my oil system situated. Lots to learn from you guys here on KA-T. It's great, at the same time confusing Until I'm the one attacking the subject.

Also, is it really tedious to mount the rear bolts on the pan? I haven't even bother removing my stock oil pan. Haha
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

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That's great to hear! Yes I think this KA-T forum is a great place to share ideas, learn from each other and become more skilled and knowledgable about various aspects of engineering.

For anyone looking for the oil pickup page:
viewtopic.php?f=40&t=54222&start=510
(I started at the beginning of the thread to find it....lots of pages, haha

The rear bolts are not too bad on a stock pan, but the design of the excessive pan (I've heard), makes the rear two oil pan mounting bolts difficult to reach, without removing the transmission or modifying the oil pan.

I haven't had the pan off in a little while, Does anyone know if the KA24de engines have that extra support bracket for the oil pickup tube?
I'm thinking if they do, this would need to be modified as well to accommodate the added length from the spacer.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by s14fiend »

I wonder how that will work being that it's aluminum and the other piece is steel.... hopefully nothing warps.... either way looks like a nice piece and aluminum might even allow for better heat dissipation. GLWB
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

s14fiend wrote:I wonder how that will work being that it's aluminum and the other piece is steel.... hopefully nothing warps.... either way looks like a nice piece and aluminum might even allow for better heat dissipation. GLWB
The upper and lower pans are both aluminum; however, you're correct, they will most likely heat-expand and contract differently than the steel block. I'm hoping nothing warps. The flanges on both are fairly thick.

I want to start this project soon because I have a feeling its going to be a bit more work than just a simple bolt-on affair :icon-neutral:
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

cleantune wrote:.I haven't had the pan off in a little while, Does anyone know if the KA24de engines have that extra support bracket for the oil pickup tube?
I'm thinking if they do, this would need to be modified as well to accommodate the added length from the spacer.
I'm pretty sure none of them do, but I know I have never seen one on an S14 motor.
cleantune wrote:I emailed Xcessive about their pan design and I'm going to try to make "access ports" through the rear bracket for the rear oil pan mounting bolts (normally one would have to remove the transmission to install the rear bolts of this upper pan. The rear bracket is not vital for the pan structure. I plan to cut away as little as possible, but if this does not work, its comforting to know that the pan will still retain its structural integrity without this rear bracket.
Access ports, shmaccess ports... trust me, just cut that stupid @#$+ flange off. It serves no real purpose whatsoever. It's not strong enough to add any real strength to the engine to trans mounting. If that's your goal, do what I did and cut off the flange and put your factory STEEL braces back on. Those things are stout! Or, you don't even have to do that. Plenty of people have run without the braces without issue. I think it was Greaser who mentioned that he never puts the braces back on and has never had an issue.

The point is, any useful access port is going to have to be big enough that you'd probably reduce any possible "strength" that the flange may add. And think about this, if it did add any actual strength, it would mean that there is obviously some movement between the trans and engine without it, right? Makes sense. But that means there is going to be constantly be pushing and pulling forces on the pan. If you take a nice RTV seal and push and pull on it all the time, you can see where that movement could lead to a leak. Trust me, cut that stupid thing off and focus on something else.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

BTW, other than that, I love my Xcessive pan :D

I actually really like most of my Xcessive products and their customer service is fantastic (when you can get ahold of them!). Rich agreed to fix a flaw in my intake manifold where a port was oversized. I had purchased the intake manifold 6 YEARS AGO. And I had already ported it slightly. So it would have been real easy for them to say that I just grinded too much away when I was smoothing the walls with sanding drums. Luckily I had ONE picture from right before I really got into the porting. Even it wasn't 100% conclusive because I had sanded slightly in that area before the pic. Still, I plead my case and assured them I was NOT trying to get something free or pull one over on them. And they fixed it and shipped it back. That's good customer service right there.
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

^thanks for clearing that stuff up. Not having that extra brace os going to make the spacer mod so much easier. I had similar thoughts about that flange - like if the trans "sees" any excessive force/movement that would end up pulling at the pan.

Since the engine was rebuilt (almost 6 years ago) I have also not been using those trans to engine support brackets...and they may not have even been there before that. Cutting that piece off of the pan would cut down on the weight a little too (shipping weight was something like 9lbs). I will check the weight of everything after it arrives though and post it on here for reference.

That's great to hear from someone else that their customer service is "top notch". I have contacted them twice with questions and they have been very helpful in answering everything that was in question.

I also read that text that was from canton's site about oil pickup to pan clearance. I still would like to go ahead with the spacer idea, but I wonder if this pan would qualify as a "deep sump pan"? (I thought it said domething about if the pan was deep the clearance between to pan and pickup could be a little more than the recommended tolerances?


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adamky
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

Sorry, I was on Ambien and went on a little rant. But I so hate that flange!!

After seeing how far away the pickup was from the pan on my setup, along with the piss-poor "baffling" and trap doors, I would never run that setup as-is. ESPECIALLY on a car that would see auto-cross or other track use. You would absolutely be better off with a stock pan than that setup. But with good baffling, effective trap doors, and proper pickup-to-pan clearance, you'll have a setup that is much improved over a stock pan. And I bet it will be more than adequate for hard track use. As long as your pickup-to-pan clearance is checked and adjusted (if needed) your setup is going to be awesome.

Oil accumulators, while being a cool concept, just seem like a bandaid fix in most situations. The only time that I think an oil accumulator really makes sense is when you have exhausted all other options and still have an issue. If I love my car to death (I do) and I've tried everything to fix it, but the only option was to either swap to a different engine or put the engine in another chassis... then I would seriously consider getting an oil accumulator.


*Side note. There's a video on youtube of a guy using a power steering pump as a dry-sump oil pump on a KA. Don't think I haven't spent a little time looking into that option too!
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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cleantune
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

adamky wrote:went on a little rant. But I so hate that flange!!

After seeing how far away the pickup was from the pan on my setup, along with the piss-poor "baffling" and trap doors, I would never run that setup as-is.... As long as your pickup-to-pan clearance is checked and adjusted (if needed) your setup is going to be awesome.

*Side note. There's a video on youtube of a guy using a power steering pump as a dry-sump oil pump on a KA. Don't think I haven't spent a little time looking into that option too!

Haha, yeah I hear ya; that flange seems like trouble.

My thoughts were similar about the OEM pan vs an aftermarket pan or any modification to the oil system- if its supposed to be an improvement, it should IMPROVE the performance of the OEM part, not make it worse... and just like you said: in order for a performance part to work properly and PERFORM (well), it must be installed correctly with attention to details like tolerances and function of the part.

That's a cool idea for a dry sump setup. I've never heard of that before. I wonder how much pressure it generates?

* oh and thanks for the words of encouragement! :mrgreen:

I do plan on checking the pan to pickup clearance like you did and making the spacer. I was half tempted to look up part numbers for an oil pickup gasket for a 350z engine because it appears to be the same shape as the ka24de oil pickup gasket and there are companies that make pickup spacers for 350z oil pickups (sumps).

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cleantune
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

This product has exceeded my expectations so far.
I have checked the lower pan mounting surface with a straight edge and everything appears to be on-point and even. The 1/2" NPT fitting also screwed in tight, without issue.
Image

I weighed the upper and lower pans and I got:
•about 4.4 lbs for the Canton lower pan
•about 7 lbs for the xcessive upper pan (w/o modification to the pan)

*for perspective purposes, a gallon of water weighs a little over 8 lbs

Parts Shop Max Swirl Pot (coolant breather and radiator hose adapter. I have no idea why it came with so many caps. The one on the tank is a radiator cap (designed to open at certain temp) the other two are "dummy" caps:
Image

Honestly have no idea when ANY of this will be installed. I found a little bit of wobble in the Canton pan and the conversation about how to fix it has already been started. Should have some results next week (hopefully).
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adamky
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

Oh no. What type of wobbling are we talking about here?
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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adamky
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by adamky »

cleantune wrote:That's a cool idea for a dry sump setup. I've never heard of that before. I wonder how much pressure it generates?
It's not the prettiest setup, but it's a cool concept that he says worked very well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpBn-5Fpg6Q
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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cleantune
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

^very interesting setup, thanks for sharing the link! There are some very creative engineers out there.

some more updates to share:

When turning sharp, the engine still seems to bog and stall (almost like the wheels are rubbing on something that is making them stop). There is clearance for the wheel until complete full lock, at which point the tire contacts the frame, end of swaybar and almost the FLCA. I stacked the two 15mm spacers and this was the result:

Image

The alignment still seems strange driving- the wheel stays straight, but seems a little twitchy and I'm thinking its because of the slight toe-out setting in the front. Currently the toe-out increases with suspension compression (opp for rebound). When setting up the tie rod ends, I tried to make the tie rod and the FLCA as parallel to each other as possible to minimize toe change through suspension compression....still learning about this supension geo stuff :mrgreen: .

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M3LVIN
Driving Mom's Station Wagon
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by M3LVIN »

Best thing I did suspension wise is the GK tech bolt on roll center correction kit. My car is very very low and it helped level out the FLCA and keep my tie rods decently level. Maybe take a look into GKtech?
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cleantune
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

M3LVIN wrote:Best thing I did suspension wise is the GK tech bolt on roll center correction kit. My car is very very low and it helped level out the FLCA and keep my tie rods decently level. Maybe take a look into GKtech?
Yeah, prob shouldn't have done all I did, haha, oh well...still learning.

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Small updates:

- picked up a small 2.5lbs extinguisher w/ metal mounting bracket
- waiting on an oil pan
- looking to start paint projects within the next few weeks
- replace fuel lines with "SAE J30 R9" fuel injection hose
- oil cooler re-install
- coolant swirl pot install

For the coolant swirl pot, found this cool post on here from someone who did this already (240sxfan6882):
viewtopic.php?t=59212&start=40

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cleantune
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Re: New Project: Mild build

Post by cleantune »

. Wow, its been a while. Sorry for the missing picture links guys, something happened with photobucket and it was going to cost like $300 pr/yr to upgrade. Testing out a new image host and I am also on instagram (@cleantune).


anyways......time for an update!

I am Proud to announce new marketing partnerships with BridgeMoto and Planted Technology!!!
I'm really looking forward to working with these great companies this 2017-2018 season.
Keep checking for updates! I will be posting information and feedback about their products as it becomes available!


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https://www.bridgemoto.com/

Image
http://www.plantedtechnology.com/



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Last edited by cleantune on Sat Jul 01, 2017 11:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
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