DIY Emissions Removal SOHC
ehh ok so i have a few questions about the emissions removal
when removing the egr theres still the sensor did u guys remove that whole block or just the smaller piece?" and if only the smaller piece was removed what did u do about the sensor? or wire hanging from it?
next question has to do with what is this and is it needed?
and last question about vac lines u run the one line from the fpr to a intake hard line but im not quite sure where that is. also u said there was 2 vac lines but u only mentioned that one
if anyone can awnser some of my question that would be kewl thanks guys
when removing the egr theres still the sensor did u guys remove that whole block or just the smaller piece?" and if only the smaller piece was removed what did u do about the sensor? or wire hanging from it?
next question has to do with what is this and is it needed?
and last question about vac lines u run the one line from the fpr to a intake hard line but im not quite sure where that is. also u said there was 2 vac lines but u only mentioned that one
if anyone can awnser some of my question that would be kewl thanks guys
- iamanonymous
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take the whole thing off. and any wiresproughj wrote:ehh ok so i have a few questions about the emissions removal
when removing the egr theres still the sensor did u guys remove that whole block or just the smaller piece?" and if only the smaller piece was removed what did u do about the sensor? or wire hanging from it?
next question has to do with what is this and is it needed?
and last question about vac lines u run the one line from the fpr to a intake hard line but im not quite sure where that is. also u said there was 2 vac lines but u only mentioned that one
if anyone can awnser some of my question that would be kewl thanks guys
thats the butterfly controller. remove it and cut the butterflies out. jb weld all holes
dont understand third question
boosting
- nis720
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I found it easier to make a plate to fit on the EGR block.
The silenoid I removed along with the rod then I had the holes welded shut on mine.
The silenoid I removed along with the rod then I had the holes welded shut on mine.
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All anybody wants is a normal life and a cool car... most people settle for the car - Titus.
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All anybody wants is a normal life and a cool car... most people settle for the car - Titus.
- iamanonymous
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Yea it connects all the runners and leaks too. I only took the butterflys off and left the shaft they turn on in there, it was 99% of the beneifit and no work at all. Though this time around (I also have like 3? spare IM's) Im going to get it welded shut.
pfft that EGR block is boring and weaksause. Mines awesome because its made from a stop sign.
~Alex
pfft that EGR block is boring and weaksause. Mines awesome because its made from a stop sign.
~Alex
I hate t25s on KAs and wheel gap and No your car really isnt that low.
Rusty II-Daily duty, SOHC-T soon
Spartian- the clean s13 getting a VQ35DE-TT soon
Maxima- the relia-beater aka 4DSC!!
Rusty II-Daily duty, SOHC-T soon
Spartian- the clean s13 getting a VQ35DE-TT soon
Maxima- the relia-beater aka 4DSC!!
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- NooB
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I guess I am really new here and maybe there is an answer somewhere, but I have a 1995 Nissan hardbody that I would like to remove the EGR and AIV systems from. I was wondering if it would be similar to the 240SX removal or if the Hardbodys have different setups.
Also, I have already removed the Charcoal canister and BPT Valve, and my Check Engine light is on. Is that due to removing the BPT valve and not the EGR? I plan on removing everything, but I want the light off. They say no CEL with everything removed. Let me know what's up.
Also, I have already removed the Charcoal canister and BPT Valve, and my Check Engine light is on. Is that due to removing the BPT valve and not the EGR? I plan on removing everything, but I want the light off. They say no CEL with everything removed. Let me know what's up.
- Trippen
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Ok Guys I am doing all this right now to my 89. and came across something that wasn't covered. the extra water lines. there are Three of them.
1. was covered that was next to the PCV.
2. Where it goes from the PCV and enters the runner pipe under the intake mani going to the heater lines on the fire wall.
3. Small tube coming out from the Upper radiator hose
4. Also Disconnected the water lines around the Throttle body since they are not needed for fuel icing here.
So my Question is If I route #2 to #3. Would this work.....I would like to eliminate them all together and looking at options of welding or plugging too.
1. was covered that was next to the PCV.
2. Where it goes from the PCV and enters the runner pipe under the intake mani going to the heater lines on the fire wall.
3. Small tube coming out from the Upper radiator hose
4. Also Disconnected the water lines around the Throttle body since they are not needed for fuel icing here.
So my Question is If I route #2 to #3. Would this work.....I would like to eliminate them all together and looking at options of welding or plugging too.
Trippen-
-Boost is like a bad habit the more you do it the more you want it.-
89 240sx se Hatch-NA RS*R race springs w/AGX's
92 240sx se Convertible-(Wifes Car) NA , Tanabe Coilovers..
95 240sx se KA-T Borded .20 over JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, Arias Pistons, Eagle Rods, 50 trim T3/T4 turbo, 50lb MSD, J30 LSD, Custom Drive shaft,D21 flywheel,PLX-R500 and TurboXS Knock lite. 275.5 tq 246hp @14psi
-Boost is like a bad habit the more you do it the more you want it.-
89 240sx se Hatch-NA RS*R race springs w/AGX's
92 240sx se Convertible-(Wifes Car) NA , Tanabe Coilovers..
95 240sx se KA-T Borded .20 over JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, Arias Pistons, Eagle Rods, 50 trim T3/T4 turbo, 50lb MSD, J30 LSD, Custom Drive shaft,D21 flywheel,PLX-R500 and TurboXS Knock lite. 275.5 tq 246hp @14psi
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im running from the heater hose steel line under the intake that went to the pine on the plenum to the upper rad port thaty would have gone to the tb
the line that went from the heater core steel line to the plenum will even work to run the 2 new ones together
the line that went from the heater core steel line to the plenum will even work to run the 2 new ones together
Turbo24sxt wrote:SOHC > DOHC ... period ...
oaznbeasto wrote: Hey 6 posts, Go **** yourself! learn something then post[/quote
- Trippen
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Well seems to be working as I thought it would. Got it running and cooling. Haven t driven the car was running out of time. Way way too much going on over the past week. The only PITA was trying to connect the EGR pipe back up. Put my nickles back in and hard a bear of a time getting it re connected. Still didn't finish it but oh well. Next trip maybe. Sorry folks didnt get pics but I will see what I can draw up for future reference.
Trippen-
-Boost is like a bad habit the more you do it the more you want it.-
89 240sx se Hatch-NA RS*R race springs w/AGX's
92 240sx se Convertible-(Wifes Car) NA , Tanabe Coilovers..
95 240sx se KA-T Borded .20 over JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, Arias Pistons, Eagle Rods, 50 trim T3/T4 turbo, 50lb MSD, J30 LSD, Custom Drive shaft,D21 flywheel,PLX-R500 and TurboXS Knock lite. 275.5 tq 246hp @14psi
-Boost is like a bad habit the more you do it the more you want it.-
89 240sx se Hatch-NA RS*R race springs w/AGX's
92 240sx se Convertible-(Wifes Car) NA , Tanabe Coilovers..
95 240sx se KA-T Borded .20 over JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, Arias Pistons, Eagle Rods, 50 trim T3/T4 turbo, 50lb MSD, J30 LSD, Custom Drive shaft,D21 flywheel,PLX-R500 and TurboXS Knock lite. 275.5 tq 246hp @14psi
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- NooB
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Resurrecting this bad boy for a few questions.
1 - The water lines that I've just removed that ran along the intake plenum...what are they for actually? Also, where the line originates from, right under the throttle body there...can I simply cap it off? Or is a weld in need?
You can see here that I've simply capped er' off with a crappy hose-n-screw combination.
2 - The S.C.V. butterfly solenoid in the rear. I've removed it, but I can't get the shaft out...is removing that shaft crucial? Any negatives to leaving it in?
Thanks guys, and sorry if these have been answered before...I have searched loads though.
Here's the beast, she's a KA24E in an 86 Nissan S12 200SX:
1 - The water lines that I've just removed that ran along the intake plenum...what are they for actually? Also, where the line originates from, right under the throttle body there...can I simply cap it off? Or is a weld in need?
You can see here that I've simply capped er' off with a crappy hose-n-screw combination.
2 - The S.C.V. butterfly solenoid in the rear. I've removed it, but I can't get the shaft out...is removing that shaft crucial? Any negatives to leaving it in?
Thanks guys, and sorry if these have been answered before...I have searched loads though.
Here's the beast, she's a KA24E in an 86 Nissan S12 200SX:
- nis720
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1 - I would run a line from where it originates (next to the main hose), to the line that runs under the intake with the heater core hose. It just loops is and bypasses the throttle body and the one on the side of the upper plennum.Tram Common wrote:Resurrecting this bad boy for a few questions.
1 - The water lines that I've just removed that ran along the intake plenum...what are they for actually? Also, where the line originates from, right under the throttle body there...can I simply cap it off? Or is a weld in need?
2 - The S.C.V. butterfly solenoid in the rear. I've removed it, but I can't get the shaft out...is removing that shaft crucial? Any negatives to leaving it in?
Thanks guys, and sorry if these have been answered before...I have searched loads though.
Here's the beast, she's a KA24E in an 86 Nissan S12 200SX:
2 - You need to make sure they are affixed to stay open, you wouldnlt want them closing at open throttle. To remove the shaft you need to remove all the plates from the bar and remove the screw in the center.
Still plays with trucks
http://members.cardomain.com/nis720
All anybody wants is a normal life and a cool car... most people settle for the car - Titus.
http://members.cardomain.com/nis720
All anybody wants is a normal life and a cool car... most people settle for the car - Titus.
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- NooB
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Thanks for the advice. One other Q'.2 - You need to make sure they are affixed to stay open, you wouldnlt want them closing at open throttle. To remove the shaft you need to remove all the plates from the bar and remove the screw in the center.
Does removing the shaft require me to remove the whole plenum and weld holes shut?
...if so, can I simply leave the shaft open? I'm guessing that "up" is open. Do I need to secure it open or anything? Will it go down by itself?
- WoodyKa620
- NooB
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(This is my first post on this forum)
When I took out my scv i left the rod in and just unscrewed the butterfly flaps. I havent had a problem. although mine isnt turbod yet, so Im not sure how that would work.
Also another tip for guys looking to remove even more, if youre not running a/c or any components you can take the ficd off the aac unit and plug it... or just take the spring and plunger out of the ficd and screw it back in and take off the wires.
When I took out my scv i left the rod in and just unscrewed the butterfly flaps. I havent had a problem. although mine isnt turbod yet, so Im not sure how that would work.
Also another tip for guys looking to remove even more, if youre not running a/c or any components you can take the ficd off the aac unit and plug it... or just take the spring and plunger out of the ficd and screw it back in and take off the wires.
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ok this is old as f but id like to know somethings. lol
ive kept the acc unit,fpr(duh) and the air regulator like it says.. im not sure where to put the line from the gas tank to the canister into. where do i relocate this line
ive takin out all the vaccume lines, all the garabe behind the valve cover, cannister lines, lines for the air to flow on manfold, removed all the egr tube from the back(broke it off, will jb weld cover the hole?), blocked off the right part of the egr with a block off plate. sensor still has a connector on it so i left it.
if someone could draw up the nessary vacuume lines or grid something simple of wat to keep wat not to keep, i think it will help out alot.
also since my cruise control didnt wokr i removed that thing as well! lol the little diaphram looking thing.
also wat am i to do with the sensor connectors since they are now gone sept for the major ones needed? thanks
ive kept the acc unit,fpr(duh) and the air regulator like it says.. im not sure where to put the line from the gas tank to the canister into. where do i relocate this line
ive takin out all the vaccume lines, all the garabe behind the valve cover, cannister lines, lines for the air to flow on manfold, removed all the egr tube from the back(broke it off, will jb weld cover the hole?), blocked off the right part of the egr with a block off plate. sensor still has a connector on it so i left it.
if someone could draw up the nessary vacuume lines or grid something simple of wat to keep wat not to keep, i think it will help out alot.
also since my cruise control didnt wokr i removed that thing as well! lol the little diaphram looking thing.
also wat am i to do with the sensor connectors since they are now gone sept for the major ones needed? thanks
- nelson240sx
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They only vacuum line you need is for the fpr and brake booster.....nothing else as far as vacuum lines. Just leave the metal line that went from the gas tank to the canister vented....you can do what ever you want with it, just dont plug it.
KA24E-T 06/06 to 10/09 (T25 then H1C Holset) - sold
KA24DE-T 12/09 to 10/11 (T4/TO4E) - sold
KA24DE-T 11/14 to 8/15 (T4/TO4S BB) - sold
SR20DE-T exo-car build 06/13 to 3/16 (EFR6758)
^ now VH45DE-T 6/16 to 10/21 (Billet T04S BB)
^now KA24DE-T 1/22 to current (EFR 7163)
Miata 1.8 turbo 9/15 to 3/17 (VF39) - sold
KA24DE-T build 8/17 to 4/19 (EFR6758) - sold
12.6:1 Turbo KA-T 4/19 to 7/21 (EFR7163) - sold
KA24DE-T 12/09 to 10/11 (T4/TO4E) - sold
KA24DE-T 11/14 to 8/15 (T4/TO4S BB) - sold
SR20DE-T exo-car build 06/13 to 3/16 (EFR6758)
^ now VH45DE-T 6/16 to 10/21 (Billet T04S BB)
^now KA24DE-T 1/22 to current (EFR 7163)
Miata 1.8 turbo 9/15 to 3/17 (VF39) - sold
KA24DE-T build 8/17 to 4/19 (EFR6758) - sold
12.6:1 Turbo KA-T 4/19 to 7/21 (EFR7163) - sold
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ok cool. so about those sensor connectors? wat do i do with them? and where should the fpr line come from. one side obviously goes to the fpr but where from the other side?nelson240sx wrote:They only vacuum line you need is for the fpr and brake booster.....nothing else as far as vacuum lines. Just leave the metal line that went from the gas tank to the canister vented....you can do what ever you want with it, just dont plug it.
- glacier985
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- nelson240sx
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you can just leave them or if you want remove the harness and pull the un-used wire / connectors out of the harness. I plan on doing that with my harness eventuallymelvingoku wrote:still dont no what to do with these extra sensor connectors. lol
KA24E-T 06/06 to 10/09 (T25 then H1C Holset) - sold
KA24DE-T 12/09 to 10/11 (T4/TO4E) - sold
KA24DE-T 11/14 to 8/15 (T4/TO4S BB) - sold
SR20DE-T exo-car build 06/13 to 3/16 (EFR6758)
^ now VH45DE-T 6/16 to 10/21 (Billet T04S BB)
^now KA24DE-T 1/22 to current (EFR 7163)
Miata 1.8 turbo 9/15 to 3/17 (VF39) - sold
KA24DE-T build 8/17 to 4/19 (EFR6758) - sold
12.6:1 Turbo KA-T 4/19 to 7/21 (EFR7163) - sold
KA24DE-T 12/09 to 10/11 (T4/TO4E) - sold
KA24DE-T 11/14 to 8/15 (T4/TO4S BB) - sold
SR20DE-T exo-car build 06/13 to 3/16 (EFR6758)
^ now VH45DE-T 6/16 to 10/21 (Billet T04S BB)
^now KA24DE-T 1/22 to current (EFR 7163)
Miata 1.8 turbo 9/15 to 3/17 (VF39) - sold
KA24DE-T build 8/17 to 4/19 (EFR6758) - sold
12.6:1 Turbo KA-T 4/19 to 7/21 (EFR7163) - sold
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