SOHC ARP STUDS

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KA24ETZTM
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SOHC ARP STUDS

Post by KA24ETZTM »

Ok so I searched SOHC ARP in the search bar and this is a question that is brought up at least 3 times a month, lol. So lets clear up all confusion and vote to sticky this so future SOHC guys can get there answer quick. First off there is no ARP part number in the catalog for a single cam ka. Its an assortment of other studs, nuts and washers. Companies basicly measure call arp and get what they need. Usually sites will have the part number listed like (arp pt # custom)
The part numbers are below for the head studs

ARP KA24E headstud "kit" per Grimsta

Stud: 10 x AM5.100-1LB
Nut: 10 x 300-8344 $4.30
Washer: 10 x 200-8519

****The main studs are exactly the same as any kit for the DOHC****

You can get both main studs and head studs from the guys below

Where to buy
atomicspeedware Link
http://www.atomicspeedware.com/ka24esohc.aspx

O&J Performance Link
http://estore.websitepros.com/1636426/C ... +Fasteners

Phase2Motortrend Link *main stud only*
http://www.phase2motortrend.com/arpmastkitka.html


Hopefully this can clear up some confusion :D
Last edited by KA24ETZTM on Thu Apr 29, 2010 9:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Jordan Gladman
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Post by Jordan Gladman »

PS. DOHC KA stud kit works, you just have to back the studs out 2 turns. :wink:
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Post by Mark Washington »

165-5401 ARP

Wow I vote yes!
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KA24ETZTM
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Post by KA24ETZTM »

Jordan Gladman wrote:PS. DOHC KA stud kit works, you just have to back the studs out 2 turns. :wink:
That may be true but you can buy the set from the places I listed and not have to back anything out. Just tighten them down snug and you still have plenty of stud sticking out. :D
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Post by Jordan Gladman »

True, but I got my cometic and studs for the same price as just the studs on the first link. Its much cheaper to buy a kit.
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Post by Mark Washington »

When you bottom a stud out on any combustion engine the metals will expand
at different rates. This could cause the threads to pull or crack the block ect.

Please dont post how you bottom them out and how fine you have been,
the technacalities I mention are to help not cause drama and start a new subject

wich I kinda just did. :blah: The same goes for mains a turn or two back will be
fine.
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Post by KA24ETZTM »

If you could show me where it says in building engines that you back out studs 2 or 3 turns I would like to see that. Im not saying your wrong just curious. The reason I put that was because people had problems with the studs being to short. How you choose to build your engine is up to you but I have never had problems with the engines Ive built. Lets just stay on topic like you said and get something accomplished that everyone needs. Jordan no offence taken I just wanted everyone to see what there options are. :D Now lets vote to get this stickied :D
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Post by KA24ETZTM »

I asked turbo24sxt if he could sticky we'll see what happens.
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Post by Jordan Gladman »

Bottoming a stud is very different than bottoming a bolt. If you hand bottom a stud, you're fine because when you tighten the nut, the stud will pull up out of the block, you arent driving the stud deeper into the block as it tightens. The lubricated nut has much less friction that the stud so the nut will always turn vs the stud therefore this isnt really an issue.

Either way, you can run a SOHC stud kit or a DOHC stud kit, the SOHC kit will give you a few extra threads to play with and makes installing and torquing the nuts a bit easier as you arent having to maintain stud depth when you bring down the nuts.
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Post by KA24ETZTM »

Couldnt have explained it better myself. Thanks Jordan :wink:
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Post by Mark Washington »

After one install of the 10mm studs they are much longer.
My point was not to crank down on the head studs, hand tight with a slight turn back is good you wont loose any strength.

I use 12mm/12cm studs
AU4.800-1LUB (studs)
300-8307 (NUT)
200-8500 (WASHER)

So far its been ok
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Post by Jackasknissan »

studs typially float by design, but by having different thread pitches n each end( by proper definition atleast)
they will have a tendancy to want to tighten a bit.

besides ultamately loosing thread strengh from not having the maximum amount of threads avalable to provide maxuim holding power their is no ill effect. as keep in mind oem head bolts dont bottom out in the hole, so it is likely still a better hold vs oem.
Turbo24sxt wrote:SOHC > DOHC ... period ...
oaznbeasto wrote: Hey 6 posts, Go **** yourself! learn something then post[/quote
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Post by Jordan Gladman »

The DOHC studs are the exact same length as the OEM bolts, exact same threads into block. :wink:
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Post by h240sx »

so buying a set of dohc would work just fine for the sohc
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Post by Mark Washington »

Yes fine just make sure you have room for the washer and nut by backing off 3 turns or so.
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Post by tom550 »

O&J Performance Link not working

new: http://www.mcssl.com/store/oandjperform ... ry/5069344
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Post by crazypete59 »

I am Wondering is there ARP studs for the stock intake manifold the reason i ask is because i need new bolts
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Post by Mark Washington »

The thread is M8x1.25

So if ARP is what you think you need call them.
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Post by Jordan Gladman »

You dont need ARPs for that, just hit up fastenal for some 60mm X 8mm set screws.
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Post by O&Jperformance »

Here is our Main Studs Kit for KA24E

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http://www.ojperformance.com/ Tel-407-944-0064
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Re: SOHC ARP STUDS

Post by Two-Tone »

Not one link in this thread works anymore. :/
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Re: SOHC ARP STUDS

Post by Liteemup39496 »

people should post part numbers not links
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Re: SOHC ARP STUDS

Post by UnknownNugget »

I bought my ARP set off ebay part number. 202-4307.
Currently in my ka24et with no issues.
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